Found ourselves an albergue (Roots and Boots) on the Muxia side of Santiago, (could save us 2 km the next morning) and settled in for the evening - excited to be back in the pilgrim mode, and excited that for the most part the weather forecast for the week was very favourable.
Had a great evening chat with three ladies who had just finished the Camino as well. Jenine, Lucinda and Clare - if you read this, I'm talking about you and the evening chat was important to us. Blessings on you.
Tuesday, October 28 - Santiago to Negreira - 22 km.
Good breakfast at Roots and Boots, and headed west at 8:30. Because of the time change on the weekend, it is comfortable lighting at 8:00 now, which means we can get underway at a better time.
This was 22 km, and we were worried that the past 18 days acting like tourists may have our walking muscles out of shape. Not to worry on this day at least. The trail "undulated" through forest and field, past brooks and farmyards. Overall, it was perhaps one of the most enjoyable days of the Camino.
The only thing the trail didn't wander past was an abundance of places to eat. One advertised one was not there, which was regretful because we had walked past one a half hour before. Thankfully we were aware that the Fisterre/Muxia way would have less food, so we were prepared, but still thankful when we found a little bar after 15 or 16 km.
Met a man (Pierre) and his dog Toby whom we hadn't seen since Sept. 27. On that day I had taken a picture of his beautiful dog, which came in handy today. Pierre is "rough" and doesn't have a lot of friends on the trail. He occasionally (often?) has to sleep outside, and it has taken it's toll. So today, I showed him the picture of his dog from 4 weeks ago, and his eyes lit up in amazement that anyone remembered him, and would want to talk. His poor English, (and my poor Italian) was a barrier, but he found out I was a pastor and we talked the blessings of God for an hour after most others had gone to bed
Wednesday, October 29 - Negreira to Santa Marino - 21 km.
The "tourist" legs that didn't bother us yesterday? They turned to jelly early on in the walk today. Earlier this week someone had described "knackered" as the state of tiredness somewhere between totally exhausted and dead. Today "knackered" hit early!
Thankfully there was an albergue with a great bar/cafe only 12 km. into the day.
Regretfully, the bar/cafe was so good, we felt rejuvenated after a lunch and an hour rest, so decided we could go on. WRONG CHOICE! Did I mention the definition of knackered? By the time we got to Santo Marino we were both well beyond mere knackeredism.
Be that as it may, a rest and a good meal, a shower and a good nights rest had us ready for tomorrow. Enjoyed the evening meal with a German lady, but never caught her name.
Thursday, October 30 - Santa Marino - Dumbria - 23 km.
There were only four of us in the six-bed room, so was a good nights sleep. Set the alarm so we could be on the trail at sunrise, ate a toast and coffee breakfast and was underway at 8:05. Another perfectly blue sky morning, and the weather stayed that way all day.
Another great section of the trail to walk. Although much of it was paved, it was tiny country roads meandering through picturesque areas. The options for stopping today were Oliveiroa (8 km), Logroso (11km) or Dumbria (23 km). We chose Dumbria for two reasons: The others were too short, and it would position us for 20 km to finish tomorrow. The weather forecast is changing, and we don't want to dilly-dally
It truly was a beautiful walk, but in the last 5 or 6 km. I was reminded of yesterday's lesson on "knackeredism". And the downfall of Dumbria is that it is so small there are not many services. But it was big enough so that the services there were at least a kilometre apart. I walked the 1 km in and back to get our afternoon lunch, and then Lorraine and I went back in for the evening meal.
Friday, October 31 - Dumbria to Muxia - (supposedly) 20 km
There are a few sections of the Camino of which I am highly suspicious of the stated distances. This is one of them. But I digress.
The weather today was "threatening" throughout the whole day. High winds. Low Clouds scuttling past. Keep your rain gear close, and put it on occasionally. But fortunately the deluge (and it was a deluge) didn't hit until late afternoon when we were safely tucked into the albergue.
The "tourist legs" were reminding us we hadn't walked much in the previous two weeks - especially Lorraine's. The road "undulated" - a lot. Other than that, it was a great day.
- The books were right in saying there was a cafe after 6 km.
- We met a man who gave us a forestry lesson. He was planting trees, we chatted and he showed us how to tell how old a tree is - without cutting it down to count the rings.
- We stopped on a whim at what one friend called the "hippy albergue". He was right, but it was an interesting place for a cup of tea.
- We walked a boardwalk along the beach for the last km into Muxia.
- We arrived safely in Muxia
Oh, did I mention my lesson from two days ago on knackeredism. I'm afraid that Lorraine and I are becoming "knackeredistic". I'm confident in saying this 20 km was actually at least 25. And I'm confident in saying I was finished at 15, and she a bit before that.
But maybe being knackered is a fitting way to end a 900 plus km walk. For we now know that this day was the last day. We had planned to stay in Muxia two nights and then walk to Fninnisterre, but when we got up Sunday morning it was blowing at one thousand km per hour, the rain was falling at 36 inches per hour, (I exaggerate, but only slightly), and the bus was leaving in one hour to go back to Santiago. We both remembered the knackered legs from the last three days, so we jumped on the bus, and that was that.
End of the Camino. End of the most amazing experience of our lives.
Saturday, November 1 - Exploring Muxia
An absolutely gorgeous day to explore the sights around this fishing village. Muxia sits right at the end of a tiny peninsula jutting out into the Atlantiic. They call this area "the Coast of Death" because of the many shipwrecks that have occurred here. It is an easy place to spend a day and decompress.
We still have some time (two weeks) left in Spain, but our schedule will change. I'm finding a place to do some study and try to get back into a routine. (Get some prep work done for the Advent and Christmas seasons.)
It has been an Amazing Journey, Thanks for Sharing :)
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