Day 0 - Saturday, Aug. 23 - Saint Jean Pied de Port
- A day to acclimatize in SJPDP - get used to the feeling of being with pilgrims, and possibly even begin to think like one. We got a great night sleep and late start because of the kindness of the lady who took us in last night without having reservations. Put our back packs on and walked around town all day. SJPDP is initially a confusing town, but soon becomes manageable. Ever conscious of our budget, and conscious of the fact that we are in the tourist trap end of the Camino, we found a grocery store and bought "dinner" for about $5.00. Looked in the shops to see what we might have forgotten, got out credentials stamped at the office, walked to the beginning if the trail to see it, and looked for an albergue for the night.
Wow! For €20.00 each we found a religious hostel that gave us bed (in room with 10), dinner and breakfast. Did I mention dinner? We had no idea we were at the beginning of a four course meal, so we ate too much of course 1, 2, 3, and 4. Finally clued in that we were full, so went to bed and tried to sleep.
Day 1 - Sunday, Aug. 24 - Saint Jean Pied de Port to Ronscavelles - 28 km
After a light breakfast we left at 8:30 - took a wrong turn at the beginning, which added 1 km to the 28 km day - but at that point no-one was worrying. The route is called the Napoleonic route, (also the night route) and for the most part was exactly what we had expected. Think of a steep hill on any road, then imagine strapping 30 lbs on your back and walking up that hill for 8 hours. Don't forget to turn up the heat to high 20's for good measure, and turn the sun on bright.
The first part was the hardest (770 meters elevation in 6 km) and brought us to a hostel/bar/restaurant where we could refuel our systems. Many people stop here for the day, but it was only 11:30 and we had only gone 6 km, so we soldiered on. The next section is easier, but longer, so for 4 hours we walked another 12 km, with 450 meters elevation.
At this point, because of the lay of the land, we thought the ascending was done, and all that was left was descent to Ronscavelles. Imagine a child waking up on Christmas morning and being informed that Santa had not arrived. That would be somewhat akin to the emotion we felt when we rounded a corner and realized we had to force our aching bodies up another 200 meters in a fairly steep climb. Somehow we did it, then walkd down 1.5 hours. The hill was so steep, the only way I could prevent blisters was to walk backwards.
At 7:30 we arrived at the famous hostel, got assigned our beds in Martin Sheen's albergue, had an absolutely delicious pilgrim meal, and crashed into bed. The kind lady who checked us in found out it was our 40th anniversary, and arranged that we would have adjoining bunks so we could at least wave goodnight to each other. No need to worry - as tired as we were nothing more than a friendly wave was going to happen tonight anyway!
For more pictures of the trip over the Pyrenees, as well as the rest of week one, feel free to check this public album on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152726848128410&type=1&l=a16c9fdf57
If that link doesn't work, there's a link in the menu at the top of this page.
Day 2 - Monday, Aug. 25 - Ronscavelles to Zubiri - 21 km
Because of the aches and pains from Day 1, we planned on a very slow day. But it's hard to stop at 10:00 am, and after that there just didn't seem any good place. And even if there were, 4 km to the next place doesn't seem that far even when you're walking. And that's how a short day turned into 8 hours of walking.
The highlight of the day happened as we left the first village. We met an elderly man, and when I greeted him in my best Spanish, he stopped us and asked if we were going to Santiago. He took Lorraine's hand and spoke words of encouragement. We have no idea what he actually said, but if felt like a "blessing". When he ended he tenderly kissed her on both cheeks, and we were on our way - the load of the packs feeling lighter already.
The lowlight of the day - there really weren't any, except that the last 4 km into Zubiri felt a lot more like 10, and the temperature spiked so let's just say we were really glad to find the town, and a place to call home in a private Albergue, and a bonus of reuniting with friends we met last night at the restaurant.
Day 3 - Tuesday, Aug. 26 - Zubiri to Villahave de Arre - 16 km
Once again, we went further than we intended in the morning, because once again, there didn't seem to be a good place to stop at a good time. It turned into a seven hour day, and the first six were very enjoyable. The seventh was unbearably hot.
The highlight of the day was the game of Camino Leap Frog that we played with Ethan and Zachary - two teenage boys from Portland, Maine who kept crossing our path. At the end of the day we were able to help them reunite with their parents, so that whole interaction made the day special. (You can read more about it in the blog called "See you in three minutes ...")
Stayed in a religious hostel, in a four bed room all by ourselves. Not sure why we got the special treatment, but we'll take it. The pilgrim menu in a downtown restaurant was not as good as we have become accustomed to, but it hit the spot.
Day 4 - Wednesday, Aug. 27 - Villahave de Arre to Pamplona - 4 km
After breakfast with friends from Belgium (Domi and Sophie) we had a leisurely stroll into Pamplona, found a great German Albergue for 6 €, and acted like tourists for the rest of the day. Lorraine needed the time off from the trail, and although the record books show we walked 5 km, being a tourist in Pamplona probably cost another 10 km as well.
Wonderful, and I mean wonderful pilfgrim meal in an upscale restaurant for 9 €. Treated us like royalty, served us quickly and the meal was great. A solo pilgrim named Mikayla was eating there as well, so we invited her to join us.
Felt good to be a tourist/pilgrim for the day.
A highlight of the day was a special moment with Domi. Upon finding out I was a pastor, he honoured us with a special show of homage. Too difficult to explain here, but I feel privileged to have interacted with him.
Day 5 - Thursday Aug. 28 - Pamplona to Uterga (via the Hill of Forgiveness) - 16 km
One line to summarize the walking part of this day: There is no shade on the Hill of Forgiveness.
This is a hill made famous in the Martin Sheen movie, "The Way" - the one with the metal images of pilgrims which serve as a great backdrop for photos. It was a hot 4.5 hour walk from Pamplona to the top of the hill, and on the last stage there is no shade. I couldn't help but think that as we approach Calvary (the real Hill of Forgiveness) there will be nothing to hide behind. All we are will be visible to the all seeing eyes of God.
There was no shade on the two hour walk to the Alto de Perdonne either, so we were definitely ready for a rest when we checked in at 3:00.
The highlight of the day: bumping into Alan Fleming, the man from Russell, ON that I met last Saturday in SJDPD. We walked and chatted together and spent a very enjoyable evening at the same Albergue.
Day 6 - Friday, Aug. 29 - Uterga to Cirauqui - 12 km
Most days as we walk, we walk alone. Occasionally someone falls into step with us and carries in for a while. On this day that someone was Peter, from Germany. Peter can't speak any English, we can't speak any German, but somehow we learned that Peter is 50 years married, and is 80 years old. Peter also carries the heaviest backpack on the Camino. (Some younger men teased him and told him it was ballast). Peter, like everyone we meet in the Camino, was a joy to walk with for a couple hours, (and as I write this four days later, we have crossed paths with him several times (including tonight) and he brings a smile to everyone's face.
Once again the Albergue in Cirauqui was amazing, with amazing cuisine served in a wine cellar. The hostess was super helpful helped to end our first week on as positive note as it had started.
I am thinking of the wonderful memories you are making and smile :)
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