I Didn't Think I Would ... But I Did

There's no denying that the Cruz de Ferro (or the Iron Cross) is a milestone on the Camino de Santiago.  I don't know if it always was, or if Martin Sheen in "The Way" turned it into one, but in all my experience of thinking about things Camino, the Cruz de Ferro is a milestone. 

The problem with that is, I'm not much on milestones. 

- High school graduation? Everyone knows it's a milestone.  I remember looking ahead to it, and imagining the feeling of pride as I walkied down the center aisle listening to Mrs. Ingalls band playing "Pomp and Circumstance".  And suddenly it was late June, 1971 ... and I was walking ... and the band was playing, and I distinctly remember thinking, "this is not what I imagined it would be."

So I've never been much on milestones.  It's not that I don't think there are important points in our life. I just don't think you can plan when they are going to happen.

With that in mind, I approached the Cruz de Ferro with some skepticism.  It is a "planned milestone."  You are to walk 500 km, reach this point high in the Montes de Leon, take a stone that you have carried from home, place it at the foot of the Iron Cross, recite a written prayer (or make up your own, if you'd rather) and "Presto. Emotional milestone happens."

My skepticism increased when I saw the placement of the Cross. It was beside a busy highway.  There was a huge parking lot across the road.  Many people were there who had not walked at all, let alone 500 km.  it was just too busy to be meaningful.

But ... somehow it happened. Lorraine and I stood at the foot of the accumulated stones, representing the accumulated burdens of hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who have walked past this place, and we waited our turn.  Not that there are "turns", but I somehow felt I needed a time when the top of the "burden pile" was less busy.  

So, without a word shared between us, we waited our turn.  And as we waited, the tears began to come.  There was something mysterious in the air, and it could not be stopped.  I shut my eyes to hold them in, but they insisted on squeezing out and falling on my arms. I sniffed.  Maybe that would help.  No avail. 

Let me be clear.  I did not know I had burdens.  Maybe some people do.  It's obvious by the symbols left here that some people approach the Cruz de Ferro with a very specific burden that they want lifted.  I had no such thing.  

But something was lifted that day.  I slowly walked up the mound of stones, approaching the Cross itself and it felt as if I was on Holy Ground.  For a long time I could not leave, and I could not stop weeping.  Children played not three feet from me, but I hardly knew they were there. 

Maybe they were your burdens that were lifted on that day.  It was Saturday, Sept. 27, 1:30 Spain time.  But just like I'm not a believer in milestones, I'm also not a believer that it had to be at that specific time.  So maybe it WAS your burdens that were being released.  This is, after all, a Prayer Walk.  The motto is "Every Step A Prayer."

Because something happened at the foot of the Cruz de Ferro.  If it's important for you to know what it was, you'll have to figure it out yourself.  Because I'm not a big believer in milestones.  And I'm not going to cry at the Iron Cross.

But for some reason, I did.  

PS. -  Cruiser went up the hill with me that day. He is walking for sick children, so I know he has a burden. He says he felt the same thing, and he hopes some child somewhere - maybe even Winchester or South Mountain - had some burdens released that day. 

 

Week five summary

PLODDING ALONG - having the experience of our lives.

Day 28 - Saturday, Sept. 20 - Sahagun - El Burgo Ranero- 17 km

Not many choices on this this day. Walk or don't walk.  And since "don't walk" is not an option, that only leaves one choice - walk.

In some ways, I wish people when writing their experiences didn't use words like "monotonous", "boring" etc, but for some reason those words have been used frequently across the mesetas.  Using those words sets a low level of expectation in our minds before we start.  And of today's walk in particular, someone said, "it's the only part of the Camino I truly hated."

It is true - this was a long walk.  With only one small village to break the routine.  But I still don't get the remarks.  It was no different than the long walk a few days ago from Fromista to Calzadilla.  It was no different than the long walk along the firebreak just before San Juan de Ortega.  Or how about the long walk into Los Arcos at 35 C a few Sundays ago.

It is what it is.  

Arrived at El Burgo Ranero, got invited in to a private hostel, that hostel had a masseuse for a donation, so for the first time we treated ourselves to this pleasure of the Camino.  

Day 29 - Sunday, Sept. 21 - El Burgo Ranero - Villarente - 25 km

Not an easy day because of the distance, but also not a hard day.  Walked three hours (13 k) before breakfast in Religious.  Then one and half hours (6.5 k) to Mansiokas de la Mulas.  Beautiful garden Albergue there where we stopped to refuel.  Would have made a great spot for the night, and as tired as we were we almost stayed, but really wanted to get closer to Leon today so soldiered on for the next hour and half of heat (this was the first really hot day for a couple of weeks). Arrived at Villarente at 3:00, found another great Albergue, rested and ate a pilgrim meal with everyone else. (Thee were no other choices without rather lengthy walk)

Day 30 - Monday, Sept. 22 - Villarente to Leon - 12 km

We expected the walk to be easy, dotted with several cafés on suburban streets, but not so.  It wound through highways, business sections, etc.  and by the time we finally got somewhere we were quite hungry.  Thankfully, we had one bar with us, (had not been able to stock up on fruit yesterday because it was Sunday), otherwise my blood sugar may have kicked into high gear.

Finally found our hotel in Leon - pleasantly surprised when we got there.  The location is not what we would have liked, since it is out of the "pilgrim" area, but 53€ per night for 4 star was a steal.  It took us about 30 minutes to walk to the Cathredal after.

Met Markin, and had an intriguing pilgrim supper (meaning none of us had any idea what we had ordered) and a great 2 hour catch up chat

BONUS - after leaving Marlin, we ran into Sigrid and Clara - the twins from Holland.  They were as happy to see us as we were to see them.  They were with friends, so it was only a quick "hello" but we made unofficial plans to meet again in Santiago.

Day 30 a - Tuesday, Sept. 23 - Day off in Leon

Did some shopping in the morning near the hotel.  In higher afternoon we walked in to the Cathredal area and did the tour as well as some "pilgrim watching".  Back to the hotel area for the evening meal (found a pizza place) and that was that for the day off.

Day 31 - Wednesday, Sept. 24 - Leon to Villadangos del Paramor - 20 km

Left the hotel at 8:45 and just like that, we were pilgrims again.  Walked though the official route, even though we had been to much of it the day before, and then out of the city.  The first part of the walk was getting through the suburbs, and then breakfast at Virgen del Camino.  After that we missed the cutoff to the "more desirable" alternate route, so had a long, hot, noisy 14 km walk beside a rather noisy highway.  Combine that with Lorraine's leg not cooperating - let's just say we were glad to find an albergue, and call this a day.  Uneventful evening meal at local restaurant. Except we met Rob from Berlin and exchanged blog addresses.  Look him up at www.Robsco.blogspot.de   

Day 32 - Thursday, Sept. 25 - Villadangos to Justo de la Vega - 23 km

Cold morning - guessing 2 or 3 C, cold enough to see our breath until about 9:00 am, cold enough to wear gloves. But after that, it became a beautiful day, warm sunshine - probably 24 C.

We had a great walking day - so great that we went 9 km further than we expected.  Lorraine's legs cooperated the best they have since week one. The first part of the day saw us pass through three villages, which makes the time pass more quickly.  

At 1:00 we left Orbigo for the last 11 km to Astorga.  This was the first time sin several days we have been off the highway, and it was wonderful.  Pasture, farmyard, corp land, potato harvest, wooded area, etc.  It was a great stretch, but proved to be a bit long.mso we were glad when we found an albergue 3 km early!  It proved to be not much, and the meal was likewise not much. BUT it saved us from walking a painful three more km!

The highlight of the day was a man named David.  4 km before the finish, there he was ... Sharing his life and his energy ... And all his possessions with anyone who wanted.  Look for a separate blog on him ... " a Man named David"

Day 33 - Friday, Sept. 26 - Justo de la Vega to - Santa Catalina de Samosa - 12 km

A purposeful slower start to the day, as we knew that we would be looking for a clinic in Astorga, so Lorraine could get that pesky bump (is it a blister, is it an infection, is it a thorn?) checked out.  Found the "clinic" (actually hospital outpatients) at 10:00, had it looked at and poked and prodded, and we were on the way at 12:00.  She went to the Farmacia, while I went back and paid for the breakfast I had forgetten to pay for this morning, we found a fruit store and by 12:30 we were pilgrims again.

Walked until 3:00, it was hot, and 12 km felt right for the day so we stopped.  Just "happened" to be at an absolutely beautiful albergue, which makes up for last nights dispointment. 

And that, my friends, is the end of week 

A Man Named David

Near the end of a long hot day, there he was.  Sitting in the middle of nowhere (it seems many of our important contacts have been made with people sitting in the middle of nowhere).  We had walked for an hour and a half since the last village, and had at least an hour and a half before the next.  Looking ahead we saw a stand, or a house, or was it store?  It was hard to tell, but as we approached we kne that whatever it was, we were welcomed to stop. "Welcome to Paradise", he said from the shadows, then proceeded to tell us he had many things to share.  

He had us with "peanut butter". (Do you have any idea how many times a Canadian misses PB when in Europe?) 

He shared his PB, and a drink of cold water, and a piece of melon - but mostly he shared himself.

So I asked, "do you stay here all day?", thinking that would be quite an undertaking.  Imagine my surprise when he replied, "this is my home.  I live here, all year, and I have for the last five years."

I asked him about water - he carries it 2 km.

I asked him about supplies - sometimes he goes into town (6km), or sometimes he walks 2 km to a telephone, and has supplies delivered.  

I asked him about winter. (The "building" was only two walls and some curtains.) - he had a little wood stove - to cook on and to heat an area about 5x10 when it gets cold.  

And this is his home. Which he was sharing with us, because we were tired, hungry, thirsty.

For the past two or three years, I've been researching the idea of minimalism - living with less, much less than we presently hold.  I think David has the minimalist life style mastered.

He asked about Canada - is it stressful there?  Oh no, I said, tongue in cheek.  Everyone lives just like you.

I'm not here to say you should live like him.  I don't think I'm ready to live like him.  But I have to say there's something appealing about finding so much happiness with so little of life's possessions.

The Bible says, "Godliness ... With contentment ... is great gain."  I don't know about godliness, but David has the contentment thing nailed.

The "measure"

What do you use to measure success? Or even progress?  

When I was young (especially in the summer and fall) success was measured in "hogsheads" - roughly equivalent to five barrels.   (Google it until you find something to do with the herring industry - I don't have time to explain)

In school, it's measured by A, B, C or D. Or by GPA or even %!

In the "real world" it's measured by dollars earned or status gained.

On the Camino it's measured by kilometers travelled, or by a combination of kilometers and time. (Every one who is anyone knows the speed you cover a measured distance is the important thing. 

In the world of ecclesiology it's measured by attendance or numbers of baptism. 

Here's my suggestion re a good measuring stick. It's found in the Scriptures in 1 Cor. 15:58 and it simply says:

"Therefore, my dear brothers and sisters, stand firm. Let nothing move you. Always give yourselves fully to the work of the Lord,because you know that your labor in the Lord is not in vain."

Breaking Point

Today was a hard day for me. (Yes, I am whining again!)

Perhaps because this day followed yesterday. Yesterday was a great day!  Very little pain. No heavy backpack to carry. No concern of where we would find a place to sleep. We were booked in our lovely, quiet, private, Hotel room for two nights.

This day was really no worse than many others we have had in the month we have been walking .... Yes, it has been a whole month already! 

But, when a grown woman gets in the shower, (after walking 20 kms) because she is tired and chilled (the weather is changing)  and the hot water seems to be gone (which is a common occurrence when many people shower too close together at the Albergues) and then she realizes the water is actually getting warmer... And then actually hot!... And she breaks down sobbing with gratitude for that hot water... That is when you know it has been a hard day!!!

I defy anyone to do this Camino and not come to a breaking point at some time. If they can do it they are made of a lot tougher stuff than I am.

Thank you God for a hot shower!

Buen Camino!

10 Reasons I love EVOLVhealth - Numero Cuatro

I EVOLVhealth because of the emphasis on healthy eating/living.

A few years ago, I preached a series of messages entitled "Commit to FIT - in every way". I felt that for many years, while we in the evangelical church emphasized spiritual fitness, we de-valued the importance of fitness in other areas of life.  

The problem with that thinking is that everything is connected, so de-valuing physical fitness, de-valuing emotional fitness, etc. has a detrimental effect on spiritual fitness.

I can't go on in this short post, because this is not meant to be a sermon series.  Suffice it to say that AFTER I began to "COMMIT to FIT: in every way", I was delighted to discover Evolv Health, a company that could help me meet this commitment in two areas.

- Evolv Health helps me "COMMIT to FIT" financially. 

- Evolv Health helps me "COMMIT to FIT" physically. 

Take a look at Anne Bodak-Smith talking about the health foundation behind the core formula. - https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=VoQpLBm8iaA

Then contact me by email - thurland@gmail.com - so we can talk.  A year from now, you'll be glad you started today.

JOY!

Little, unexpected things bring GREAT joy!

Monday evening was a night of joy.

We walked into the Cathedral area of Leon to meet Marlin. Through the magic of FaceBook, this was a planned meeting with a great Camino friend who was now walking one or one and a half days ahead of us.  We met him as planned, had a somewhat suspenseful meal (none of us knew what we really ordered) and two hours of Camino Conversation.  In many ways, Marlin's experience is mirroring mine, we seem to appreciate the same kind of "Camino moments" (he was with us the other night when the four nuns served us so well), so a couple of hours with Marlin flies by, and brings joy.

The Great Joy began when Marlin said he thought he had seen the twins from Holland. (He only knew them because of a picture I had posted several days ago.). So when we left him, we decided to take a quick walk thought the pilgrim area.  And suddenly, there they were!  Smiling, laughing, hugging - as delighted to see us as we were to see them.  Five minutes is all we had - how are you, your ankles, are you eating right - because they were with friends.  

But I'm here to remind you that five minutes can bring great joy.  In that five minutes we found out they really appreciated what we had done for them, they talked of it amongst their friends (I heard her whisper, "these are the people that ...") and we made plans to find each other in Santiago.  (They don't leave until Oct. 16, and we will probably arrive there around Oct. 10 - 12)

So, Sigrid and Clara - if you happen to read this - this is a reminder that joy goes both ways, and last night it was your smiling faces that brought joy to our Camino.

Keep walking. Keep smiling.  Buen Camino