After the Camino - 2 - Porto, Portugal

Looking at the weather, and looking at the map, and looking at the amount of time at our disposal, on Monday, Oct. 20 we jumped on a bus and headed for Porto!  

- the weather says it is unseasonably warm and sunny in Porto for the next week

- the map says it's on the coast in northern Portugal, only three hours by bus

- the Internet says it's no more expensive to stay there than it is here

- the calendar says we have at least a week we could spend there

- and the heart says "Go."

Not knowing much about it, we booked two nights at a hotel in the city center, and lucked out again. Vera Cruz was right beside City Hall, which is a happening area of town. When we came out of the subway station and started looking for street names to pinpoint where we were, the first thing we saw was the name of our hotel, less than 100 meters from the Metro.  

After those two nights, we did some leg work to follow up in some of the cheaper hotels - to make sure we would want to stay there before we booked one - and found the family-run D. Filipe I, and moved there for the next five nights. 

The weather for the week was AMAZING. 28 to 32 C every afternoon. Cool enough (barely) to sleep well in the night.  Everyone tells us it was unusual for this time of year (normally 10 C cooler), so we certainly enjoyed it!

The beach - dotted with cafés, etc - was very relaxing.  The water was warm enough to enjoy, but we learned the hard way you don't turn your back on the ocean.  Waves were regular and strong, with the occasional one being larger and much stronger.  Lorraine got pummelled pretty good by one of the larger ones.  Not only did it scare her, it flipped her around, took her glasses and that was that.  Because of the steepness of the beach, the undercurrent was strong, and when something is gone, it is gone forever.  Fortunately, for the FIRST TIME in our lives we had travelled with an extra pair of glasses, so it was only a matter of getting back to the hotel to be back in the swing of things.

The tourist "things to do" - there were sufficent of them, and many at a reasonable rate, that we found Porto a very easy city to hang around for seven days.  Two-day passes on the Hop-on-Hop-off bus, a cable car ride, a tour of a wine cellar, church after church, a high tower, a River cruise, and lots of walking through the different areas filled the time rather nicely.  

Although far from the Camino, I would have to rate the week in Porto as a success!  We were sad to say goodbye, and would definitely return if the opportunity ever affords itself.  

After the Camino - 1 - Santiago and Finnisterre

The first days (actually 8 - 10 days) after the Camino we spent between Santiago and Finnisterre, (which by many is seen as a natural extension of the Camino).

Saturday, Sept. 10 through Monday, Sept. 12 we spent in Santiago - getting the certificates, viewing some of the sites, meeting friends, relaxing.

We were staying at the Semanario Menor, which is about 1.5 km from the Cathedral area, and it was very suitable, at somewhat reasonable rates (€15 each per day).  It had laundry facilities which allowed us to catch up, cooking facilities which allowed us to be budget conscious, and huge eating area, which allowed us to meet other pilgrims who had recently finished the Camino.  

This included Saskatoon Ron, whom we had met several times on the trail, and Toronto Mary, who we hadn't seen for five weeks.

Tuesday we walked to the bus station, paid €13 each for tickets to Finisterre, and headed to the end of the earth.  I had wanted to walk, but at the last minute decided to do the bus, and spend more time in Finisterre.  RIGHT CHOICE for a couple of reasons.  First, it rained heard for four days,and the walk would have been absolutely miserable. And secondly, the bus trip was some of the most amazing scenery of the entire time so far.  The three hour ride was 80% on the coast! and the coast was rugged and beautiful.  

The three nights in Finisterre were well worth the price of admission, in spite of the horrid weather.  We walked to the Lighthouse at the end of the earth in driving rain.  We walked the beach in driving rain.  We went down town for each of the three evening meals in driving rain.  We shopped in driving rain. And it was WONDERFUL.  As someone noted on one of our FaceBook posts, "there is no such thing as bad weather ... only poor clothing choices."  

The pilgrim menu in Finisterre included lots of seafood choices and it was all delightful.  If you ever do the Camino, here's my advice to you.  Put on your positive attitude, get yourself to Finnisterre, and enjoy tthe end of the earth.  

Friday, October 17, we jumped back on the bus and returned to Santiago.  The plan had been to go to the other coastal town of Muxia, and I probably should have.  But  by that time, with the rain still driving, my positive attitude toward things coastal was beginning to mildew, so we returned, looking for drier circumstances.

The immediate plans are to be in Santiago until Monday, and then jump a bus to Porto, Portugal. We lucked out on our weekend hotel room.  It is in the Center of the city, exactly where I want to be, and it is NOT a room, it is an apartment.  

Until next time, Buen Camino.  (I still say that because I don't yet know what to say now that the Camino is past.). I'm still hanging around pilgrims, and so the weekend at least still has a Camino feel to it, so I'll indulge my fantasies and say, "Buen Camino".

You CAN get there from here!

Every time I hear a great guitarist, I KNOW that should have been me.  If only I had been born with his talent.  If only I had as nice a guitar.  If only my fingers were as long as his.  If only, if only ... if only.

But I know I'm just kidding myself.  He/she is a great guitarist because they payed the price to get there,while I tried to find "work arounds", or shortcuts.  He spent hours doing the "do, re, me", burning callouses into his fingers, while I discovered two or three "licks" and pretended I was already great.  

I wanted to "be" there.  He took the time to "get" there. 

I've always known this, but one of the lessons the Camino has cemented is just that.  You can use a thousand things to illustrate the point.  Want to have a million dollars?  There are steps (other than robbing a bank, or relying on blind luck.). Want to be a great athlete? Start with the basics.  

Tonight at supper, I met a new friend - Jacques from Quebec, Quebec.  Together we coined the phrase, "Everyone wants to 'be' there.  Very few want to 'get' there."  Jacque, at 65 knows what he is talking about. He is just finishing his fourth Camino.  He did the French way 9 years ago,then the Portugese Way, then some other way, and this year the Norte Way.  He was talking about his many friends who often say they want to "do" a Camino.  

But here's what we've learned.  You don't "do" a Camino.  You "take" a walk.  And then ... another one, and another one, and one more, and ... and ... and.  The steps you take start long before Saint Jean Pied de Port.  The steps include saving money, walking around mundane Gypsy Lane, saving money, walking around mundane Gypsy Lane, denying yourself other things that would eat away at the money you've saved, walking around mundane Gypsy Lane.  And finally the magical day arrives and you are sitting in a cafe/bar in a little French town you now know as SJDPD, and you say, "tomorrow I'm taking a walk".

But even then, you don't begin to walk a Camino.  You just walk. You see a yellow arrow on the way out of town, and you follow that arrow.  And then there's another arrow, and another.  You're exhausted already, because mundane Gypsy Lane couldn't prepare you for the first hour of the  French Pyrenees, and you want to quit, but you don't - you just keep walking.  You're not walking a Camino.  You are just walking to that next shade tree.  When you get there, IF you get there, you will reward yourself with a drink of water, and then you'll walk to the next shade tree.  When you get THERE, if you get there, you'll have water AND a piece of bread.  Now that's a reward worth looking forward to!

So you walk to that shade tree, and somehow garner the strength to go to the next one.  Not because it's fun, but because you have decided to walk a Camino, and the only way to walk a Camino is to walk to that shade tree. 

Week 7 Summary - OUR CAMINO ENDS

I didn't keep notes as I walked this week, AND I am writing this AFTER we have completed the 800 km.  It's Saturday night as I write, and yesterday at 2:00 we walked down the hill into Santiago de Compestela, got ourselves a room in the Seminario Menor albergue, and sauntered over to the Cathedral of Saint James, ending our Camino.  

Saturday morning we went back to the Cathedral area, found the Pilgrim Office, and received our certificates of completion!  Our new good friends, Kathy, Don, and Carmelle were with us; we had a little celebratory hug in the middle of the street, and that was that. 

But, that was not that.  In fact, I'm not sure "that" will ever be "that" again.

But while I'm trying to figure out what that means, here's a recount of the week.

1.  We walked.  From Samos to Barbadelos - 15 km., from Barbadelos to Portomarin - 20 km., from Portomarin to Portos, 20 km, from Portos to Melide - 20 km, from Melide to Arzua, 20 km.From Arzua to Pedrouza - 20 km, and finally Pedrouza to Santiago - 20 km.  Up hill and down (is there no flat land in Spain?) on streets, country lanes, and beautiful wooded paths.  We walked.

2.  It rained.  Until this week, we had kept our rain jackets handy three days in a row, and used them for about five minutes on each of those three days. This week, we used them - from Portomarin to Portos, Portos to Melide, Melide to Arzua, and from Arzua to Pedroza - we used them.  They did their job, and thankfully it was a warm rain, so we were never cold, but let's just say this week we learned what they mean when they say Galicia is rainy.

3.  Lorraine proved herself to be one of the strongest women I know. She wanted this as badly as I did, so day after day, she dug deep - as deep as anyone I've seen during our 7 weeks, and deeper than most.  Every morning she'd say, "I don't think I can walk today", and then she'd dig deep.  The last day she said, "I wonder if anyone has ever walked 780 km, and then not been able to finish."  And then she dug deep. 

4.  We made new - and lasting friendships.

Monday night in Portos was a Camino moment.  12 people, none of whom knew the others, were in a small albergue, waiting out the rain. Don and Sue, from Ottawa.  John and Kathy from Minneapolis.  Jacques from Montreal.  Jane and D (Denise), both from South Africa. Fabio and Valentina from Italy.  Carmelle from Montreal. And us.

And what a night we had.  The meal was superb. The conversation was engaging.  The friendships were instantaneous!  And Monday night was celebrated all week as we kept bumping into 8 of these people.

Fabio and Valentina were the couple I blogged about earlier (Carry each other's burdens).  She was carrying his back pack for a good part of the last few days because of a muscle injury he had.  I had talked to them earlier, and since they were holding back in the conversation (they spoke only broken English), I introduced them as my heroes, and told some of their struggles. They later confided they were not married, and had decided if they were able to get to Santiago together, they would be setting the date.  We walked much of the next few days together, and I know they were in Santiago, so I eagerly await the news of a date.

Speaking of dates, I wrote in that same blog about a blind man walking the camino with a guide. I never met them, but my friends John and Kathy did.  And they told me that the guides wife, and the blind mans girlfriend met them in Sarria and walked the last 100 km.  Guess who's girlfriend is now his fiancé? Another wonderful Camino moment.

5.  And speaking of "Camino moments", look for a separate blog called "The Camino DOES do miracles."  My heart leapt for joy this afternoon as Lorraine said, "that sounds like ..."  

Well, never mind, go look for the other blog.  If it's not there yet, it will be soon.  Because it was "..." Never mind, just go look.

The Camino DOES do miracles

There I sat - head down, fully engrossed in catching up on Facebook, aware only of the fact that the Internet connection was somewhat finicky and not wanting to miss a minute of posting our activities for the past two days.  Dimly I was aware of hearing Lorraine say, "That sounds like Helen's voice."  I looked up, hardly paying attention, because for several days something would remind us of Helen.  Someone looked like her.  Someone walked like her.  Someone was stopped in a place that she was likely to stop.  So with disinterest, I looked up ... and immediately my spirit was filled with joy.  Unbelievably, it WAS Helen!

You cannot begin to imagine, nor could I begin to elucidate the string of "coincidences" that would have had to occur to allow this to happen.

We met her first on Sept. 12, in Hornillos del Camion. For the next fours days, we walked the same distances - but never together.  Over those four days, we had several short "How's the day going" conversations, and one extremely short (literally 30 seconds) but deeply meaningful conversation that drew my spirit to hers.  And then she was gone and though Lorraine and I both hoped to see her again, we figured she was gone forever.  Over the next four weeks we often thought of her, and wondered where she was.  We played in our minds a few possibilities that might occur that would cause us to meet again, but we knew it was never going to happen. 

  

I'm not even sure why this was important.  But for some indescribable reason, I wanted to see Helen again.  On two or three occasions, I would say to fellow so-journers, "There's one person I'd like to see again.  Her name is Helen ...", and I'd tell them a bit about her, hoping against all odds that one of them might know who I meant, and say, "I saw her just yesterday."  But it never happened.

Imagine the string of "coincidences" that would have to occur to allow us to meet.

- She was a full week ahead of us

- She's from Australia, we're Canadians

- Even if she ended up in Santiago the same time we did, it's a big city.  We're staying outside the pilgrim area.  We would have to be in the same place, at the same time, and ... And ... And...

And ... And ... And ... Unbelievably ... there she was.  We had a group hug of gigantic proportions. We laughed.  She laughed. The kind people behind the counter of Terra Nova Pilgrim House laughed (and wondered what was going on.)  We took pictures, and exchanged Internet identities.  And hugged some more.

I wish I could explain to those of you reading this the immensity of that tiny moment.  I have a feeling that fellow Camino walkers know exactly what I'm talking about, while others might be thinking "pastor's losing it over there in Spain."  

As I wrote this, Lorraine and I are getting ready to meet Helen for an evening meal for which we set tentative plans. It may or may not happen.  (It didn't) And it really doesn't matter any more.  For the Camino enriched our lives when Helen's Camino intersected ours for a few minutes from Sept. 12 - 16, and the Camino filled our hearts with joy with another five unbelievable minutes on October 11.

Burden bearing

A STORY

I saw them walking very slowly down the stony hill.  V.E.R.Y. slowly.  A young man, and a woman I assumed was his wife.  We greeted them and passed on.

A while later, we saw him again. Still walking V.E.R.Y. slowly.  It was obvious that he was favouring his left leg, and that any motion was extremely painful. And then up ahead I saw her.  Smiling.  Waving.  Encouraging.  AND carrying both his backpack and hers.

The Bible says "Bear one another's burdens." Some people make the assumption that means they can pointlessly offload their "stuff" on everyone else.  Not so. (I know that because three verses later the Bible says "Each one should beware his own burden.")

I saw them again today - in fact we are staying with them tonight.  This morning he carried his own pack for a while, and this afternoon - in the rain - she carried it again.

Why?  Because they are going somewhere.  Together.  And in order for them to get there, they have to "bear each other's burdens". (I suspect they will go a long way together.) 

ANOTHER STORY

I saw a blind man walking the Camino.  VERY fast.  Amazingly fast.  Much faster than us.  How could that be?  Because he was loosely attached to the arm of a guide.  A short 8 inch rope attached them at the wrist, and that was enough for the guide (maybe his father) to allow the blind man the freedom to walk.  Two days in a row I saw them, walking, laughing, racing through the Camino. Bearing one another's burdens. 

ANOTHER STORY

Last night I showed a roommate the picture I took of the woman carrying her husband's pack.  She told me that way back in the early days, one afternoon she was hurting really bad, and a man (a stranger to her) offered to carry her pack.  "It was off in an instant."   Bearing one another's burdens.  

That's it.  Three stories.  You can make your own "moral of the story", because although I am a preacher, I am on sabbatical, and it's too much work to draw conclusions.  

Buen Camino.

10 Reasons I love EVOLVhealth - Numero Cinqo

I love EVOLVhealth because it works for me even when I'm not working for it.

Those of you who know me know that I've been in Spain for several weeks.  During that time, all I have done regarding EVOLVhealth is use the products (for there is no reason to ever take a vacation from that) and write a coupe of blogs about why I love EVOLVhealth.

But while I'm here, EVOLVhealth has continued to work for me.  Just today I signed up another customer, and the benefits of that will continue for her (because she has made a healthy choice) and financially for me.

What's not to love about a business that will work for you even when you aren't working for it? 

Contact me by email - thurland@gmail.com - so we can talk.  A year from now, you'll be glad you started today.

An Open Blog for seniors (including my Mom and Dad)

Before I start I should say that it is presumptuous of me to think I have the answers for what it's like to face the problems of being old.  I've never been there, though I'm getting close.  Having said that - read on for my presumptuous conclusions.

The Camino is filled with many twists and turns.  Some that make you think you can't go on.  Some that make you think you don't want to.  And some that make you think you must.   Sometimes debilitating pain.  Sometimes looking behind at how far you've come ... and sometimes looking ahead at how much is left. Looking up at the steepness of the next climb.  (Oh how I long for the smooth paths) - Then suddenly you are on those flat mesetas, and you long for a change of view. (Oh God, where are the mountains?) 

Through this I have leaned a secret.  Are you ready for this great revelation?  You better sit down, because this is a major announcement.  Here it comes: the way to walk a Camino is ... One step at a time.  

In fact I think it's safe to say that you don't "walk the Camino".  You take a step. And then you take another one. And then one more.  And if you take enough steps in the same direction, you look back and realize you have walked a Camino.  

If you had asked Lorraine a month ago, "can you walk 10 to 20 km every day for a month when nearly every step makes you grimace with pain?", the answer would have been,"No." But the month is over, and 500 km have been covered in that time.  "Can you walk a month in pain?" "No, but I can take another step."

Life is like that.  Filled with twists and turns. You get used to one thing, and in an instant it is gone - and all that remains is the wisp of a memory. You don't know how you are going to face the next hurdle. 

The reality is, you're not!  You're just going to take a step, then another ... And another.  

Her name was Hazel.  For all of her adult life she had been a strong and devoted Christian.  Thrusted in Jesus. Testified often that He never failed her.  All the good stuff that good Christians, especially good Christians of the evangelical persuasion, do.  Then the time came ... and she was admitted to a nursing home - a.k.a Seniors Residence.  She told me (because I was her pastor) that at at that point in life she went through a deep crisis of faith. She no longer knew if she believed. Could the Jesus who had led her when she was strong now hold her when she was weak?

This was new to me.  Until that moment I had always assumed that seniors "had it made", or at least as far as matters of faith are concerned.  How could she possibly have doubts at this stage in life? 

But that's the question, isn't it?  Will the Jesus whom I proclaimed with vigor in my middle years - those years when I was strong, those years when I had something to offer ... those years when JESUS NEEDED ME! - will that Jesus show himself strong for me now ... when all I have to offer is ... is me.  

And suddenly, unexpectedly the latter part of life's Camino is filled with fear, and doubts,

My parents are at an age that used to be reserved for "old people".  The only problem with that is they're not supposed to be old.  They're 84 and 80 - and that SOUNDS old, but it can't be ... because they're my parents.

They've reached that age where they occasionally fall when they try to go to bed.  Or the doctor calls them and tells them things like angina, and blockages, and memory lapses.  (Can you imagine my Dad with a memory lapse?) 

They, like most of the rest of the seniors I know, are wondering, "How can I do this for another 5 years, 10 years?"

And the answer is, "You can't.  But you can take the next step ... and the next one ... and the next."

And every step, you will be able to look back and say with certainty, "YES, Jesus was there!"

Week Six Summary

Week Six - "PLAYING" in the mountains. 

When I think back and realize that most of this week was in mountains, I am amazed at the progress - 134 km. 

Day 34 - Saturday, Sept. 27 - Santa Catalina to El Acebo - 28 km. 

The choice today was 17 km to Foncebadon (45 minutes before the Cruz de Ferro) or 28 km  to El Acebo.  We decided to make the decision when we reached Foncebadon.

The first 9 km were "stroll in the park" - and Lorraine's feet were cooperating! After that, the ascent began, and though not rugged, it was 8 km of uphill to Foncebadon.  We were tired when we arrived, but were 15 minutes ahead of book time, so after a nice lunch at grocery store, and great conversation with a lady from Tuscon, we decided to head off.

30 minutes of easy climbing brought us to the Iron Cross - see separate blog entitled "Tears at the Cross".  We spent close to an hour there before heading on.  It was shortly after this that the day got tough.  There was another hour or so tiring ascent to the highest point on the Camino, then two or more hours of rugged descent into El Acebo.  All in all today, we walked through several kinds of terrain, and most of them were hard.

Delighted we were to see the town of El Acebo, and a room at the Parochial Albergue just before the rain started. 

Day 35 - Sunday, Sept. 28 - El Acebo to Ponferrada - 20 km. 

A lot of "rain threat" all day, but only a little bit of rain during our walk. 

The first half of the walk was a continuation of yesterday's difficult descent.  If there is a hard surface to walk on, the Camino has handed it to us in the last two days.  Having said that, we got down safely, and were able to follow the sounds of the helicopters into Ponferrada. (Major world class bike races were being held in Ponferrada this week, so the TV helicopters hovered overhead all day.) 

Got to Ponferrada, enjoyed some time at the race, checked in to the Albergue, and went back to watch races. Did some site seeing around the Templars Castle area, got supper at a restaurant, and tucked into bed for the night.  

Day 36 - Monday, Sept. 29 - Ponferrada - Villafranca - 25 km. 

Started out with Lorraine's legs not cooperating, but got to Cacabelos by noon (17 km), and had a good rest and meal.  Felt strong enough to try the next section, (which looking ahead makes the couple of days through the mountains better) so ended up going to Villafranca (25 km total). The last 4 were long and hard, and she went right to bed for a nap while waiting for the evening meal. 

Interesting tidbit for the day - in Cacabelos we met Donna - an aunt of Jennifer, who was a leader in the Youth Group when I pastored in Port Maitland, NS. Sing it with me: "it's a small world after all ..."

Day 37 - Tuesday, Sept. 30 - Villafranca - El Portela de al Valcarce - 15 km. 

Almost missed the turn off to go over the mountain (as opposed to walking beside a busy highway). SO GLAD we didn't!  It was a strenuous "up" for 45 plus minutes, but fate that it was magnificent view after magnificent view as we walked along a plateau.  Just before the "down" we walked through a huge chestnut forest.  Hot day, but absolutely beautiful

The end if the day was difficult descent (it seems that all descents are difficult) into Traledo, and then a 5 k walk into El Portela.  All was forgotten when we were able to get a albergue room with just out bunks, including private bath for only 4 extra Eruos.

 Day 38 - Wednesday, Oct. 1 - El Portela to O Cebreiro - 15 km. 

Spectacular day!  Started with finding an "artesan" bakery for breakfast. (The smells may haunt me the rest of my life).  7 km of village to village walking followed by 8 km of difficult ascent (close to 900 meters) but the views were amazing.  V late after village, albergue after albergue, ridge after ridge - it just kept getting better!  And then we passed the border into Galicia, and reached our destination of O Cebreiro!  No matter where you looked, the view was simply stupendous.

Day 39 - Thursday, Oct. 2 - O Cebreiro to Tricastela - 22 km. 

For the first half of the day - ditto to yesterday.  Left O Cebreiro and went through a couple of passes and some more shorter ascents and descents, each one opening onto an amazing vista.

And then we were done! We climbed the last major hurdle (Alto Poio) felt the exhilaration that comes with knowing the hardest physical part is now behind you.  For the last week we have played in these mountains, covering 140 km - which is the furthest we have walked even on smooth landscapes.  We have climbed peak after peak:  up to the Iron Cross, the Leon Mountain, today's walk - and we have been exhausted.  But today at the Alto Poio, the book says we have the last major hurdle behind us.

having said that, we still had to get down - and getting down is not easy for us.  So but the time we arrived in Triacastela, we were both exhausted and ready for a long winter nap.

Met Marlin Murdoch and had great evening meal with him. 

Day 40 - Friday, Oct. 3 - Tricastela to Samos - 10 km.

We knew yesterday that we were only going 10 k today, so we didn't hurry out this morning. Last out of albergue, stopped for breakfast and then wandered slowly down the road. And what a day it was to wander slowly!  Warm sunshine. Idyllic pathway through the countryside. Undulating hills. The very essence of peacefulness. 

Arrived around noon at Samos, had a lunch with friends, and checked into the 6th century Benedictine Monastery Albergue. 

Relaxing in afternoon and evening.