Week Six Summary

Week Six - "PLAYING" in the mountains. 

When I think back and realize that most of this week was in mountains, I am amazed at the progress - 134 km. 

Day 34 - Saturday, Sept. 27 - Santa Catalina to El Acebo - 28 km. 

The choice today was 17 km to Foncebadon (45 minutes before the Cruz de Ferro) or 28 km  to El Acebo.  We decided to make the decision when we reached Foncebadon.

The first 9 km were "stroll in the park" - and Lorraine's feet were cooperating! After that, the ascent began, and though not rugged, it was 8 km of uphill to Foncebadon.  We were tired when we arrived, but were 15 minutes ahead of book time, so after a nice lunch at grocery store, and great conversation with a lady from Tuscon, we decided to head off.

30 minutes of easy climbing brought us to the Iron Cross - see separate blog entitled "Tears at the Cross".  We spent close to an hour there before heading on.  It was shortly after this that the day got tough.  There was another hour or so tiring ascent to the highest point on the Camino, then two or more hours of rugged descent into El Acebo.  All in all today, we walked through several kinds of terrain, and most of them were hard.

Delighted we were to see the town of El Acebo, and a room at the Parochial Albergue just before the rain started. 

Day 35 - Sunday, Sept. 28 - El Acebo to Ponferrada - 20 km. 

A lot of "rain threat" all day, but only a little bit of rain during our walk. 

The first half of the walk was a continuation of yesterday's difficult descent.  If there is a hard surface to walk on, the Camino has handed it to us in the last two days.  Having said that, we got down safely, and were able to follow the sounds of the helicopters into Ponferrada. (Major world class bike races were being held in Ponferrada this week, so the TV helicopters hovered overhead all day.) 

Got to Ponferrada, enjoyed some time at the race, checked in to the Albergue, and went back to watch races. Did some site seeing around the Templars Castle area, got supper at a restaurant, and tucked into bed for the night.  

Day 36 - Monday, Sept. 29 - Ponferrada - Villafranca - 25 km. 

Started out with Lorraine's legs not cooperating, but got to Cacabelos by noon (17 km), and had a good rest and meal.  Felt strong enough to try the next section, (which looking ahead makes the couple of days through the mountains better) so ended up going to Villafranca (25 km total). The last 4 were long and hard, and she went right to bed for a nap while waiting for the evening meal. 

Interesting tidbit for the day - in Cacabelos we met Donna - an aunt of Jennifer, who was a leader in the Youth Group when I pastored in Port Maitland, NS. Sing it with me: "it's a small world after all ..."

Day 37 - Tuesday, Sept. 30 - Villafranca - El Portela de al Valcarce - 15 km. 

Almost missed the turn off to go over the mountain (as opposed to walking beside a busy highway). SO GLAD we didn't!  It was a strenuous "up" for 45 plus minutes, but fate that it was magnificent view after magnificent view as we walked along a plateau.  Just before the "down" we walked through a huge chestnut forest.  Hot day, but absolutely beautiful

The end if the day was difficult descent (it seems that all descents are difficult) into Traledo, and then a 5 k walk into El Portela.  All was forgotten when we were able to get a albergue room with just out bunks, including private bath for only 4 extra Eruos.

 Day 38 - Wednesday, Oct. 1 - El Portela to O Cebreiro - 15 km. 

Spectacular day!  Started with finding an "artesan" bakery for breakfast. (The smells may haunt me the rest of my life).  7 km of village to village walking followed by 8 km of difficult ascent (close to 900 meters) but the views were amazing.  V late after village, albergue after albergue, ridge after ridge - it just kept getting better!  And then we passed the border into Galicia, and reached our destination of O Cebreiro!  No matter where you looked, the view was simply stupendous.

Day 39 - Thursday, Oct. 2 - O Cebreiro to Tricastela - 22 km. 

For the first half of the day - ditto to yesterday.  Left O Cebreiro and went through a couple of passes and some more shorter ascents and descents, each one opening onto an amazing vista.

And then we were done! We climbed the last major hurdle (Alto Poio) felt the exhilaration that comes with knowing the hardest physical part is now behind you.  For the last week we have played in these mountains, covering 140 km - which is the furthest we have walked even on smooth landscapes.  We have climbed peak after peak:  up to the Iron Cross, the Leon Mountain, today's walk - and we have been exhausted.  But today at the Alto Poio, the book says we have the last major hurdle behind us.

having said that, we still had to get down - and getting down is not easy for us.  So but the time we arrived in Triacastela, we were both exhausted and ready for a long winter nap.

Met Marlin Murdoch and had great evening meal with him. 

Day 40 - Friday, Oct. 3 - Tricastela to Samos - 10 km.

We knew yesterday that we were only going 10 k today, so we didn't hurry out this morning. Last out of albergue, stopped for breakfast and then wandered slowly down the road. And what a day it was to wander slowly!  Warm sunshine. Idyllic pathway through the countryside. Undulating hills. The very essence of peacefulness. 

Arrived around noon at Samos, had a lunch with friends, and checked into the 6th century Benedictine Monastery Albergue. 

Relaxing in afternoon and evening.