I Didn't Think I Would ... But I Did

There's no denying that the Cruz de Ferro (or the Iron Cross) is a milestone on the Camino de Santiago.  I don't know if it always was, or if Martin Sheen in "The Way" turned it into one, but in all my experience of thinking about things Camino, the Cruz de Ferro is a milestone. 

The problem with that is, I'm not much on milestones. 

- High school graduation? Everyone knows it's a milestone.  I remember looking ahead to it, and imagining the feeling of pride as I walkied down the center aisle listening to Mrs. Ingalls band playing "Pomp and Circumstance".  And suddenly it was late June, 1971 ... and I was walking ... and the band was playing, and I distinctly remember thinking, "this is not what I imagined it would be."

So I've never been much on milestones.  It's not that I don't think there are important points in our life. I just don't think you can plan when they are going to happen.

With that in mind, I approached the Cruz de Ferro with some skepticism.  It is a "planned milestone."  You are to walk 500 km, reach this point high in the Montes de Leon, take a stone that you have carried from home, place it at the foot of the Iron Cross, recite a written prayer (or make up your own, if you'd rather) and "Presto. Emotional milestone happens."

My skepticism increased when I saw the placement of the Cross. It was beside a busy highway.  There was a huge parking lot across the road.  Many people were there who had not walked at all, let alone 500 km.  it was just too busy to be meaningful.

But ... somehow it happened. Lorraine and I stood at the foot of the accumulated stones, representing the accumulated burdens of hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who have walked past this place, and we waited our turn.  Not that there are "turns", but I somehow felt I needed a time when the top of the "burden pile" was less busy.  

So, without a word shared between us, we waited our turn.  And as we waited, the tears began to come.  There was something mysterious in the air, and it could not be stopped.  I shut my eyes to hold them in, but they insisted on squeezing out and falling on my arms. I sniffed.  Maybe that would help.  No avail. 

Let me be clear.  I did not know I had burdens.  Maybe some people do.  It's obvious by the symbols left here that some people approach the Cruz de Ferro with a very specific burden that they want lifted.  I had no such thing.  

But something was lifted that day.  I slowly walked up the mound of stones, approaching the Cross itself and it felt as if I was on Holy Ground.  For a long time I could not leave, and I could not stop weeping.  Children played not three feet from me, but I hardly knew they were there. 

Maybe they were your burdens that were lifted on that day.  It was Saturday, Sept. 27, 1:30 Spain time.  But just like I'm not a believer in milestones, I'm also not a believer that it had to be at that specific time.  So maybe it WAS your burdens that were being released.  This is, after all, a Prayer Walk.  The motto is "Every Step A Prayer."

Because something happened at the foot of the Cruz de Ferro.  If it's important for you to know what it was, you'll have to figure it out yourself.  Because I'm not a big believer in milestones.  And I'm not going to cry at the Iron Cross.

But for some reason, I did.  

PS. -  Cruiser went up the hill with me that day. He is walking for sick children, so I know he has a burden. He says he felt the same thing, and he hopes some child somewhere - maybe even Winchester or South Mountain - had some burdens released that day. 

 

Week five summary

PLODDING ALONG - having the experience of our lives.

Day 28 - Saturday, Sept. 20 - Sahagun - El Burgo Ranero- 17 km

Not many choices on this this day. Walk or don't walk.  And since "don't walk" is not an option, that only leaves one choice - walk.

In some ways, I wish people when writing their experiences didn't use words like "monotonous", "boring" etc, but for some reason those words have been used frequently across the mesetas.  Using those words sets a low level of expectation in our minds before we start.  And of today's walk in particular, someone said, "it's the only part of the Camino I truly hated."

It is true - this was a long walk.  With only one small village to break the routine.  But I still don't get the remarks.  It was no different than the long walk a few days ago from Fromista to Calzadilla.  It was no different than the long walk along the firebreak just before San Juan de Ortega.  Or how about the long walk into Los Arcos at 35 C a few Sundays ago.

It is what it is.  

Arrived at El Burgo Ranero, got invited in to a private hostel, that hostel had a masseuse for a donation, so for the first time we treated ourselves to this pleasure of the Camino.  

Day 29 - Sunday, Sept. 21 - El Burgo Ranero - Villarente - 25 km

Not an easy day because of the distance, but also not a hard day.  Walked three hours (13 k) before breakfast in Religious.  Then one and half hours (6.5 k) to Mansiokas de la Mulas.  Beautiful garden Albergue there where we stopped to refuel.  Would have made a great spot for the night, and as tired as we were we almost stayed, but really wanted to get closer to Leon today so soldiered on for the next hour and half of heat (this was the first really hot day for a couple of weeks). Arrived at Villarente at 3:00, found another great Albergue, rested and ate a pilgrim meal with everyone else. (Thee were no other choices without rather lengthy walk)

Day 30 - Monday, Sept. 22 - Villarente to Leon - 12 km

We expected the walk to be easy, dotted with several cafés on suburban streets, but not so.  It wound through highways, business sections, etc.  and by the time we finally got somewhere we were quite hungry.  Thankfully, we had one bar with us, (had not been able to stock up on fruit yesterday because it was Sunday), otherwise my blood sugar may have kicked into high gear.

Finally found our hotel in Leon - pleasantly surprised when we got there.  The location is not what we would have liked, since it is out of the "pilgrim" area, but 53€ per night for 4 star was a steal.  It took us about 30 minutes to walk to the Cathredal after.

Met Markin, and had an intriguing pilgrim supper (meaning none of us had any idea what we had ordered) and a great 2 hour catch up chat

BONUS - after leaving Marlin, we ran into Sigrid and Clara - the twins from Holland.  They were as happy to see us as we were to see them.  They were with friends, so it was only a quick "hello" but we made unofficial plans to meet again in Santiago.

Day 30 a - Tuesday, Sept. 23 - Day off in Leon

Did some shopping in the morning near the hotel.  In higher afternoon we walked in to the Cathredal area and did the tour as well as some "pilgrim watching".  Back to the hotel area for the evening meal (found a pizza place) and that was that for the day off.

Day 31 - Wednesday, Sept. 24 - Leon to Villadangos del Paramor - 20 km

Left the hotel at 8:45 and just like that, we were pilgrims again.  Walked though the official route, even though we had been to much of it the day before, and then out of the city.  The first part of the walk was getting through the suburbs, and then breakfast at Virgen del Camino.  After that we missed the cutoff to the "more desirable" alternate route, so had a long, hot, noisy 14 km walk beside a rather noisy highway.  Combine that with Lorraine's leg not cooperating - let's just say we were glad to find an albergue, and call this a day.  Uneventful evening meal at local restaurant. Except we met Rob from Berlin and exchanged blog addresses.  Look him up at www.Robsco.blogspot.de   

Day 32 - Thursday, Sept. 25 - Villadangos to Justo de la Vega - 23 km

Cold morning - guessing 2 or 3 C, cold enough to see our breath until about 9:00 am, cold enough to wear gloves. But after that, it became a beautiful day, warm sunshine - probably 24 C.

We had a great walking day - so great that we went 9 km further than we expected.  Lorraine's legs cooperated the best they have since week one. The first part of the day saw us pass through three villages, which makes the time pass more quickly.  

At 1:00 we left Orbigo for the last 11 km to Astorga.  This was the first time sin several days we have been off the highway, and it was wonderful.  Pasture, farmyard, corp land, potato harvest, wooded area, etc.  It was a great stretch, but proved to be a bit long.mso we were glad when we found an albergue 3 km early!  It proved to be not much, and the meal was likewise not much. BUT it saved us from walking a painful three more km!

The highlight of the day was a man named David.  4 km before the finish, there he was ... Sharing his life and his energy ... And all his possessions with anyone who wanted.  Look for a separate blog on him ... " a Man named David"

Day 33 - Friday, Sept. 26 - Justo de la Vega to - Santa Catalina de Samosa - 12 km

A purposeful slower start to the day, as we knew that we would be looking for a clinic in Astorga, so Lorraine could get that pesky bump (is it a blister, is it an infection, is it a thorn?) checked out.  Found the "clinic" (actually hospital outpatients) at 10:00, had it looked at and poked and prodded, and we were on the way at 12:00.  She went to the Farmacia, while I went back and paid for the breakfast I had forgetten to pay for this morning, we found a fruit store and by 12:30 we were pilgrims again.

Walked until 3:00, it was hot, and 12 km felt right for the day so we stopped.  Just "happened" to be at an absolutely beautiful albergue, which makes up for last nights dispointment. 

And that, my friends, is the end of week 

A Man Named David

Near the end of a long hot day, there he was.  Sitting in the middle of nowhere (it seems many of our important contacts have been made with people sitting in the middle of nowhere).  We had walked for an hour and a half since the last village, and had at least an hour and a half before the next.  Looking ahead we saw a stand, or a house, or was it store?  It was hard to tell, but as we approached we kne that whatever it was, we were welcomed to stop. "Welcome to Paradise", he said from the shadows, then proceeded to tell us he had many things to share.  

He had us with "peanut butter". (Do you have any idea how many times a Canadian misses PB when in Europe?) 

He shared his PB, and a drink of cold water, and a piece of melon - but mostly he shared himself.

So I asked, "do you stay here all day?", thinking that would be quite an undertaking.  Imagine my surprise when he replied, "this is my home.  I live here, all year, and I have for the last five years."

I asked him about water - he carries it 2 km.

I asked him about supplies - sometimes he goes into town (6km), or sometimes he walks 2 km to a telephone, and has supplies delivered.  

I asked him about winter. (The "building" was only two walls and some curtains.) - he had a little wood stove - to cook on and to heat an area about 5x10 when it gets cold.  

And this is his home. Which he was sharing with us, because we were tired, hungry, thirsty.

For the past two or three years, I've been researching the idea of minimalism - living with less, much less than we presently hold.  I think David has the minimalist life style mastered.

He asked about Canada - is it stressful there?  Oh no, I said, tongue in cheek.  Everyone lives just like you.

I'm not here to say you should live like him.  I don't think I'm ready to live like him.  But I have to say there's something appealing about finding so much happiness with so little of life's possessions.

The Bible says, "Godliness ... With contentment ... is great gain."  I don't know about godliness, but David has the contentment thing nailed.

The "measure"

What do you use to measure success? Or even progress?  

When I was young (especially in the summer and fall) success was measured in "hogsheads" - roughly equivalent to five barrels.   (Google it until you find something to do with the herring industry - I don't have time to explain)

In school, it's measured by A, B, C or D. Or by GPA or even %!

In the "real world" it's measured by dollars earned or status gained.

On the Camino it's measured by kilometers travelled, or by a combination of kilometers and time. (Every one who is anyone knows the speed you cover a measured distance is the important thing. 

In the world of ecclesiology it's measured by attendance or numbers of baptism. 

Here's my suggestion re a good measuring stick. It's found in the Scriptures in 1 Cor. 15:58 and it simply says:

"Therefore, my dear brothers and sisters, stand firm. Let nothing move you. Always give yourselves fully to the work of the Lord,because you know that your labor in the Lord is not in vain."

Breaking Point

Today was a hard day for me. (Yes, I am whining again!)

Perhaps because this day followed yesterday. Yesterday was a great day!  Very little pain. No heavy backpack to carry. No concern of where we would find a place to sleep. We were booked in our lovely, quiet, private, Hotel room for two nights.

This day was really no worse than many others we have had in the month we have been walking .... Yes, it has been a whole month already! 

But, when a grown woman gets in the shower, (after walking 20 kms) because she is tired and chilled (the weather is changing)  and the hot water seems to be gone (which is a common occurrence when many people shower too close together at the Albergues) and then she realizes the water is actually getting warmer... And then actually hot!... And she breaks down sobbing with gratitude for that hot water... That is when you know it has been a hard day!!!

I defy anyone to do this Camino and not come to a breaking point at some time. If they can do it they are made of a lot tougher stuff than I am.

Thank you God for a hot shower!

Buen Camino!

10 Reasons I love EVOLVhealth - Numero Cuatro

I EVOLVhealth because of the emphasis on healthy eating/living.

A few years ago, I preached a series of messages entitled "Commit to FIT - in every way". I felt that for many years, while we in the evangelical church emphasized spiritual fitness, we de-valued the importance of fitness in other areas of life.  

The problem with that thinking is that everything is connected, so de-valuing physical fitness, de-valuing emotional fitness, etc. has a detrimental effect on spiritual fitness.

I can't go on in this short post, because this is not meant to be a sermon series.  Suffice it to say that AFTER I began to "COMMIT to FIT: in every way", I was delighted to discover Evolv Health, a company that could help me meet this commitment in two areas.

- Evolv Health helps me "COMMIT to FIT" financially. 

- Evolv Health helps me "COMMIT to FIT" physically. 

Take a look at Anne Bodak-Smith talking about the health foundation behind the core formula. - https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=VoQpLBm8iaA

Then contact me by email - thurland@gmail.com - so we can talk.  A year from now, you'll be glad you started today.

JOY!

Little, unexpected things bring GREAT joy!

Monday evening was a night of joy.

We walked into the Cathedral area of Leon to meet Marlin. Through the magic of FaceBook, this was a planned meeting with a great Camino friend who was now walking one or one and a half days ahead of us.  We met him as planned, had a somewhat suspenseful meal (none of us knew what we really ordered) and two hours of Camino Conversation.  In many ways, Marlin's experience is mirroring mine, we seem to appreciate the same kind of "Camino moments" (he was with us the other night when the four nuns served us so well), so a couple of hours with Marlin flies by, and brings joy.

The Great Joy began when Marlin said he thought he had seen the twins from Holland. (He only knew them because of a picture I had posted several days ago.). So when we left him, we decided to take a quick walk thought the pilgrim area.  And suddenly, there they were!  Smiling, laughing, hugging - as delighted to see us as we were to see them.  Five minutes is all we had - how are you, your ankles, are you eating right - because they were with friends.  

But I'm here to remind you that five minutes can bring great joy.  In that five minutes we found out they really appreciated what we had done for them, they talked of it amongst their friends (I heard her whisper, "these are the people that ...") and we made plans to find each other in Santiago.  (They don't leave until Oct. 16, and we will probably arrive there around Oct. 10 - 12)

So, Sigrid and Clara - if you happen to read this - this is a reminder that joy goes both ways, and last night it was your smiling faces that brought joy to our Camino.

Keep walking. Keep smiling.  Buen Camino

A Happy Trooper!

Thurland has dubbed me "Trooper".  

Today I am a happy Trooper!

We have reached Leon and after a bit of confusion with getting to the Eurostar Hotel we have our "home" for two nights.

I asked Thurland, as we looked for the place, if it was a 3 star, 2 star, or what? His reply was "I can't remember."  My sceptical remark that followed was "or you just didn't bother to check".

You can imagine my surprise when we got here to see it was 4 star!  What a good man! (And at the price of a 2or3 star!)    Love  booking.com

We were served by a very nice lady at the hotel desk. She was so busy running the desk alone with people arriving, phones ringing and keeping it all in stride.

So we went to our room. Canadians need a instruction manual for Europian Hotels. Who knew you had to use your room key to have lights!  They have unique ways to save electricity.

Next, inspect the bathroom... WHAT....NO BATH TUB!!!  A soak for my weary bones is so what kept me going the last day or two ... Or three! 

So, knowing what a sweet lady she was,  I dared to go back to the hotel desk and request a change to a room with a tub. Her reply was "Sorry, no." And then as she scanned over her computer screen this wonderful sparkle came into her eyes "Yes! I have one!"    Ah yes! The Camino gives you what you need!  I would prefer to say "God gives me what I need" but either way, I got my tub! 

And soak I did!!!!  There is a huge window over the tub so with it open it was like soaking in a tub outdoors!  New experience for me! 

Lunch "arrived"  to add to the days pampering. Delicious bocodillo and a wonderful dessert to top it off!

He can call me whatever he wants! 

He knows how to treat his wife and his dog!

Buen Camino!

She's a TROOPER

Urban Dictionary: trooper

www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=trooper

Anyone who exhibits EXTREME perseverence, fortitude, and tenacity.

After nearly 30 days of chasing my wife, Lorraine across France and northern Spain, I have to agree with Urban Dictionary's definition of "trooper", and I herewith bestow that name and it's meaning upon my wife.  

Here's my view for most of this trip.

Occasionally it has changed to this:

That's my view because Lorraine sets the pace for most of our walks.  I try to set the distance we will walk, but I leave it to her to set the pace.  That's because for most of the time we have been walking she has walked in pain.  Sometimes severe, sometimes nagging, but al the time ... pain.  Very close to 500 km of pain. 

So Madam Trooper it is, from now and henceforth forever more.

Or, at least that's what I intended to call her.  Then I remember that our first pet together was a dog, a black Lab named  Trooper. If she for one minute thinks I'm calling her a dog, this compliment may well rise up to bite me in the ... Sit, trooper, sit!

10 Reasons I love EVOLVhealth - Numero Tres

There are at least seven ways in which I can earn money

That's right - Seven ways I can earn money. 

1. When I sell to a customer, I get a healthy cash commission - at least 15%, sometimes more

2. When I enrol three customers, each buying at least $50 per month, I get free product

3.  When I enrol a new business partner, (my term, not EVOLVhealth's) I get a healthy cash commission.

4. When I enrol my third business partner, in addition to the cash bonus, I get my sample kit recharged free.

5.  I get paid a percentage of my pay team's sales

6. I get paid a percentage of my personally enrolled individual's sales.

7. Every time I change rank, I get a cash performance bonus.

Email me soon - thurland@Igmail.com- I'd love to tak to you about how YOU can become part of this team.  One year from now, you'll be glad you started today.

Or for more denials check out the company line re the pay scale, via you tube - http://www.evolvhealth.com/compplanoverview/

Or take a look at this - the plan explained in print - https://www.dropbox.com/s/oet9ydsj69fqqpd/Comp%20Plan%20%2808.20.13%29%282%29.pdf?dl=0

Whatever you do, don't just sit there.

Municipal Albergue at Sahagun - FAIL

Don't judge a book by its cover.

Don't judge an albergue by its spacious feel.

In this instance at least, the spacious feel simply means that every sound is magnified.

And in this instance at least, no one made any attempt to de-magnify sounds.

The unofficial evening meal rioted on until 12:00

So the sounds of the late to retire blended in with the sounds of those on their middle of the night "facility runs". And - BONUS - the facilities have no ceiling, so every possible associated bodily noise is magnified and broadcast throughout the building. 

Which blended in with the sound of the one who drank too much at the unofficial evening meal, and was violently sick at 3:00

Which blended in to the sounds of those who are trying to "sneak out" (NOT) at 5:00.

So, not to over do my point, but the spacious Municipal Albergue that welcomed me at Sahagun  - I now know I'd walk by in an instant.  And I'm glad the projected 17 km Walk this morning is said to be straight, flat and monotonous (one man said it was the only part of the entire Camino that he truly dislike), because it looks like we'll be doing it in our sleep.

Cluny Albergue - Sahagun?

 

Waking up on the Camino (part 2)

After posting the first part on this topic I remembered one of my most unappreciated wake up calls...

-- The dreaded cell phone alarm !

Okay, so you want up early. Put the thing on vibrate under your pillow for goodness sake!

No. They make it sing out loud...at 4:30am!... And then have the nerve to push "snooze"!!  

Enough said!

Buen Camino! 

Week four summary

Day 21 - Saturday, Sept. 13 - Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz - 19 km 

Figured we had better do a more full day since the last two had been on the lesser side of moderate.  The day was broken into three distinct sections:

The morning walk along a plateau to a town built at the bottom of a "bowl". You literally did not see Hontanas until you were less that a half kilometre from it, and then the earth opened up and there was a very pilgrim friendly town.  Stopped for snack here and met Allie and Allayna (sp?) from London.  Spent longer there than intended as they were in a talkative mood.  (Met them again that evening and they were helpful.)

The late-morning walk was interrupted by the "ruins of San Anton".  We were walking by, but we have an unspoken rule that if a fellow pilgrim tells us that we should stop and look at something, we do.  Helen (Australian girl we met last night) was staying at this hostel - (no electricity, no services except a community evening meal) - and she said we should look around.  It was a half hour well spent.

The third section was not long, but it felt it.  It was hot again by now, and the long straight walk into town tired us both out.  The search for an albergue took longer than expected, and when we got there it wasn't open for another two hours.  That was OK, because we were amongst some of the first to arrive at this hostel, so we knew we had a place to spend the night.

Late afternoon and evening - attending to pilgrim duties such as shower, finding food for tomorrow and tonight, walking too far to catch the end of a festival, walking back and falling asleep.

Met Barry from Florida, and Debbie from Washington State, and enjoyed a chat.

Met a Spanish man with a bitter spirit - ANGRY, ANGRY, ANGRY - at the world. Said he was dying from Leukemia, and was walking to Santiago where he supposed he would make his peace with God, but he wasn't sure he wanted to do that - at least he wanted to have a fight first.  We listened to him and talked for a while.  Later learned he had disrupted most of the albergue with his ranting in the night. 

Day 22 - Sunday, Sept. 14 - Castrojeriz to Itero de la Vega - 12 km

A good strong hill first thing in the morning - 1 hour to the top of the 12% grade! about 15 minutes across the plateau, and then a long 18% descent.  Halfway up the ascent, we met a man running back toward Castrojeriz, and about halfway down the descent his wife was waiting with their two backpacks.  Whatever he was running back after, I hope it was important, because he would be at least three hours before he was back to where she was.  

Walked with Barry (Florida) for a few minutes, and then he was gone. (Debbie, his walking partner from yesterday had taxied ahead to Fromista)

The "event of note" on this day was our encounter with Helen (Australia). I first met her two nights ago in Hornillos des Camino.  When we met she told me I reminded her of a friend, and she had just been thinking of that friend while she walked.  She took that as a sign she was "where she was meant to be tonight".  Then we met her yesterday (as noted) at San Anton.  Somewhere during this time I gained the firm impression that I was to give her a message.  I do not know why it was important, but on this day we ran into her again  at the ancient hospital of Sant Nicholas.  It is now a small hostel, and this is where she was staying tonight.  We found her out back, and the simple conversation was simply this:

- "I was asked to give you a message."

- "By whom?"

- Me shrugging, and pointing to the sky, "I don't know, but I have been asked to tell you that you have a beautiful spirit."

That was all, but as the tears welled up in her eyes and I turned to walk away, I know that for some reason that was important.  Maybe someday we'll meet again and she'll tell me why.

We stopped early in Itero de la Vega, spent. Good but uneventful afternoon and evening, and got a good night sleep. No snorers in the tiny 12 bed room.  I think that is a first

Day 23 - Monday, Sept. 15 - Itero de la Vega to Fromista - 14.5 km

Woke to the sound of pouring rain at 6:00, but by the time we were ready to walk at 7:15 it had stopped, the sun was peaking through and it was a beautiful day.  Lorraine even found 10€ on the path way about 2 km from town.  

For some reason the pain that was in Lorraine's right foot two weeks ago decided to come back - this time in her left foot. By the time we got to Fromista we had to stop, even though we had not planned that. Sat around waiting for the albergue to open, got checked in and she got rested up.  Hopefully it will work like it did the last time, and disappear in one or two days.

At the evening meal we shared with a man named Marlin from Houston.  (I had chatted with him briefly yesterday at the restaurant). Had a great conversation with him - sharing Camino and other life experiences.  He is an educator, so we share some similar experiences.  We are trying to become Facebook friends so we can share each other's stories, but so far the wifi Is not cooperating.  

Day 24 - Tuesday, Sept. 16 - Fromista - Carrion de les Condos - 21.5 km

A good day walking and a great evening at the Albergue.

First the walking:

After the rough finish to the day yesterday with Lorraine's left foot, we were somewhat afraid of what this day might bring. Looking at the location and mileage of the the next few albergues, we knew that we wanted to get to Carrion, in order to make tomorrow palatable (meaning not too short for me and not too long for Lorraine's foot.)

Suffice it to say that it was comfortable walking weather, her leg was more than cooperative, there were villages for rest stops at convenient locations, so all in all it was a good day and we finished our 20 km and were checked in at 1:00 pm.

Along the way we met three fellow Maritimers (Bathurst, NB and PEI) as well as several others. 

The Albergue: 

Sorry, Ciraqui, but as nice as you were you have now been replaced as our number one evening.  We checked in at the Santa Maria Albergue, attached to the Santa Maria Church.  Even before we had decided to stay there, the young volunteer had brought us a cup of ice tea, and a fresh fruit to eat.  The price was €5, and the rest of the evening was what you might idealize as the "perfect Pilgrim Experience". Voluntary Vespers at 5:30 at the church, voluntary shared musical led by four young nuns back at the Albergue at 6:00, Mass followed by Pilgrim blessing at 8:00, and a shared meal at 9:00.

We were not part of all of this (we eat long before 9:00, and that meant we missed the Mass) but we were in on the sing-a-long and the pilgrim blessing and I sat outside the door and experienced the vivacity of the shared meal.

It was the spirit of the four nuns and the three male volunteers that made this evening what it was.  Their faces absolutely glowed with the joy of The Lord, their greatest delight was to see the pilgrims smile, (and they did much to make that happen).  Thank you to those who serve humbly and faithfully at Santa Maria for making this evening the highlight of our pilgrimage so far.

We ate supper with Marlin (Houston) and Wanda (from Calgary) and I talked at length with Marlin about this evening.  We are in agreement that this was a special Camino moment, and one that we hope will be recreated several times over in the coming weeks.

Day 25 - Wednesday, Sept. 17 - Carrion to Calzdilla de la Cueza - 17 km

This day was as difficult as yesterday was easy.  

 Lorraine's leg cooperated, but just barely.  I carried her bag for 3/4 of an hour to get her loosened up, and then she was able to do it the rest of the way, but basically only by putting her mind in auto-pilot and slogging on.  When she gets going, she doesn't want to stop, because the ankle freezes each time.  The other day, I said she was solar-powered, and today she was wind-powered.  I can hardly keep up with her when she gets going, which is good news because one of her great fears is that she is slowing me down.  

The road today was barren - 17 km of straight road - no hills, no corners, no villages to bring a moments respite.  It was windy, threatening rain (we actually had our rain gear on for a good part of the day, because the rain was close, but only got hit for about five minutes.). We finally saw our village at 11:20, but even at 5 km per hour that we were doing, it was shortly after 12:00 before we arrived.

Note of explanation - none of this is complaining.  The Camino is what the Camino is. (Just like life is what life is). Yesterday the Camino was the idealized experience.  Today the Camino was a long straight road.

At the Albergue this afternoon, we chatted at length with 19 year old twin sisters from Holland.  Very interesting and engaging.  As I write this we are waiting to go to the one restaurant/bar in town for the evening meal.  Maybe we'll be blessed to share the meal with them.

SCORE ONE FOR THE OLD PEOPLE - we invited the twins to join us at our table, and they did!  (Admittedly, I told them I'd pay for their meal, but how can you put a price on good conversation with delightful young people)

Day 26 - Thursday, Sept. 18 - Calzdilla de la Cueza to San Nicolas de la Real Camino - 15.5 km

I don't know if I mentioned this before, but sometime in the last week or week and a half the weather has changed.  Whether that has to do with altitude (we're at 800 m above sea level lately, as compared to 400 earlier) or just the time of year, I do not know.  Two weeks ago it was hot every day, and comfortable in the early morning and evening.  Now it is on the lower side of comfortable during the day, and cool in the early mornings and evenings.  The last two days we have worn long sleeves and fleece for good part of the day. 

Not a bad walk today - we have found "our pace".  Our pace is about 15 km per day with the occasional 20 thrown in when Lorraine is not checking too closely.  In fact, in the 15 days since we thought we'd be doing good to average 10, we have completed very close to 250 km, or an average of over 16.

Tonight we're at a nice albergue in this tiny town. Can't even go shopping for tomorrow's fruit, because there's no where to shop.  The pilgrim meal will be at the bar downstairs, and we'll meet some more new friends.  

(The new friends were actually our roommates as well - Susannah and David, and their German Shepherd/Husky Luna.  They are from Logrono, Spain, and will be covering many more kilometers per day than we are, as they have 18 days til they must finish)

Day 27 - Friday, Sept. 19 - San Nicolas to Sahagun - 8 km

This was a "short on purpose" day, in order to give Lorraine's leg a rest.   But there is one note of significance:  we walked through the geographical center of the Camino. 

We were in Sahagun by 10:15, waiting for the albergue to open at 11:00. Did walk about 3 km for a stroll this afternoon in order to pick up the Certificate celebrating the geographic Center of the Camino.  

While waiting for the albergue to open, we had a coffee with a Bill and Gina.  Gina was struggling with many of the same issues as Lorraine, but they were taking a different route.  They had caught a bus at Castrojeriz, and were taking the train to Leon - missing 140 km of "fun".  

This is a spacious albergue, (in every area except showers and facilities) but not hard at all to spend the day here.  We toyed with the idea of a hotel since we were checking in early, but wanted to leave that option for Leon, which looks like is only 2 to 3 days away.

Happy 30th birthday to our youngest daughter, Jaymie.  

Thanks for your prayers. Thanks for your notes on FB and on this blog. Every note is read and is an encouragement. 

This picture is a bonus. It is my favourite of all I have taken on the Camino. The  brilliant foreground contrasted with the ominous clouds approaching - a good picture of life?

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The Spanish language is supposed to be an easy one to learn, so I have heard.  No language is easy for me to learn. I passed my French exam in grade ten by the skin of my teeth... And a lot of memorizing that was soon forgotten the next day.

We are picking up a few new Spanish words every day. Thurland is doing much better at it than me.

Meal times have been interesting. We have had wonderful servers who try very hard to explain what the menu is in words we might, or might not, recognize.  A lot of places have pictures so you know exactly what you are ordering. Up until a couple days ago we always knew pretty well what we were getting. 

We have been in restaurants yesterday and today that have less understandable English. We got by the first 2 courses but when it came to dessert we had no idea what they were saying! They don't do pictures for the dessert menu. :)  So we took our chances and said "si" when she gave us the options. We had no clue what we ordered!

We eat a lot of fruit on the walk... Apples...oranges....bananas. When it comes to dessert after our meal, (which by the way, have calories and we don't care!)  we are looking for pudding or ice cream...anything but fruit!

Well, last night our 'surprise dessert' was peaches!  At least it was a change from the fruit we usually eat. Tonight, we had to chuckle when we found out we had ordered orange juice!    :)

You get what you ask for!  :)

Buen Camino !

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Waking up on the Camino

As I was snapped out of my sleep this morning at 6:15 I had to chuckle to myself

....yes I can chuckle that early in the morning, when I chose the right attitude for the day :) 

 (See my last post for more explanation on that)

That got me to thinking of all the ways I have been awakened since the beginning of our pilgrimage.

- Gregorian Chanting ... It was so nice and so appropriate especially when waking in a church.

- "Guten morgan!" as our German Hospitalier turned on the lights in our room

- Church bells chiming out the time

- Roosters!  Lots of roosters!

- Sleeping bag zippers

- very noisy plastic bags!

- the patter of shoes since we have to wear shoes at all times

- Squeeky beds!

- Slamming of bathroom doors.

- Head lamps shining all around in the dark

- Snoring!

- Pidgeons outside the window

- Of course there was the gentle nudge from my husband if I managed to somehow sleep through all the noises in the room.

And that brings me to today. I woke to the snip, snip, snap of a guy in the bunk over me cutting his toe nails!  (I still chuckle at the thought of it)

It will be interesting to see if anything tops that one!

Buen Camino!

My pain will soon be gone!

Thurland woke up Grumpy this morning! 

She was sleeping on the top bunk. His gentle nudge to wake her up at 6:30am was not really necessary. The early rising peregrinos had started making noise at 5:15! 

About 6:00 there was a down pouring of rain. Grumpy hoped all the early risers got drenched! 

Grumpy does not do mornings well on the best of days but today it felt okay to be grumpy. Woken too early, a cold wet morning. Grumpy just wanted to roll over and go back to sleep.

I presume you already have figured out who Grumpy is.

Our attitude is totally a matter of choice. We can chose to be happy, or let circumstances take over and our choice is to be grumpy. Today I made the wrong choice.

A few days ago I started out a day with no pain. It has not happened since. Today was very hard to get going. I had to tell my brain to tell my foot to move. Thurland took my backpack for a while so I could get the foot going without the weight (as he also did yesterday).  Once I got the foot in motion I just had to keep going. Stopping was not an option. It hurt too much to start again. 

I asked God to relieve my pain. He didn't. But instead he moved me to make this a day of prayer for those who live with pain. So as I took each painful step it was a prayer for those who suffer daily with pain of all sorts that  will not go away.  I was humbled by the realization that I am only suffering for a time. My pain will go away but theirs won't.

Today was the first day we pulled out the rain gear. It was very windy and a few drops of rain made us decide we better get ready.... It never came. 

So, I am grumpy. I am in pain, and I am walking along when I see written in the sand on the dirt road "HAPPY".  A few steps further I see "LOVE".  

Oh boy!  They say the Camino gives you what you need! Time for some serious attitude adjustment! 

I have thousands of reasons to be happy and not a doubt in the world that I am loved!  My day changed for the better when I stopped to consider how blessed I am. 

Here's to making better choices!

Buen Camino!

Helen

I have no picture to share, and even if I did it wouldn't show what I want to show, because as beautiful as Helen is, it is her spirit that immediately drew my attention.  As Lorraine says, "Helen is on a different pilgrimage than most."  

It's true.  There are many reasons to be on the Camino, and I suppose all of them are legitimate.  As the Camino gains popularity (it is now touted as a top cultural experience of Europe, so that alone will entice many more people to come) I suspect that it will change. Already we have noticed a string of enterprises that grow up around the Camino. As you approach each evenings destination there are several advertisements dotting the trail, each intended to draw you to that particular business.  Several new private albergues have been built even this year, masseurs offer their services, taxis and tour-groups to help you ship your bags (or yourself, if necessary) - all of these are industries that are growing up around (and changing) the Camino.  

When you sign in at the office in SJPDP, they ask why and how, are you doing the Camino.

- for religious reasons

- for spiritual reasons

- for cultural reasons

- for physical reasons

- on foot, or on bike.

So, with people, of all ages, people of all backgrounds, people with various reasons for being here, people with different schedules, it is easy to see that everyone is on their own Camino, and everyone's Camino is different.

Having said all that, I go back to Lorraine's statement and I concur: Helen is on a different pilgrimage. I wrote this in my week four summary, but I think it deserves a blog of its own.  Helen from Australia has a beautiful spirit.  So beautiful that I looked for her for two days to deliver a message to her, because for some reason I thought she might need to hear it.  The message? "Helen, you have a beautiful spirit!"

I don't know why it was so important for me to tell her that.  I don't know why she wept when she heard it.  I hope we get to spend a couple hours talking about it, but by now she's at least one day ahead of us. 

But that encounter has made me wonder.  When you see someone with a beautiful spirit, maybe you should tell them you have seen it.  Maybe, just maybe you can make a person with a beautiful spirit weep with joy.