Week 2 Summary

A short summary of week two would be: "uncertainty, pain in the leg, prayer requests"

Day 7 - Saturday, Aug. 30 - Cirauqui to Estella - 15.3 km

This was a rather easy walk. We had intended to go to the next Albergue, but last night's host told us that would be a mistake because there was nothing there.  We took her at her word and stopped in Estella, finding an albergue that employs handicapped adults.  It was a bigger town than we anticipated, so when someone pointed out a market on the other side of town, we went.  It was too far (probably cost us another 6 km when we got confused a time or two).  We got what we needed but the disappointment came later when we discovered several more than adequate markets open in the evening near our albergue.

On this "extra walk" Lorraine's leg started to pain, which comes into play in the next few days.

Day 8 - Sunday, Aug. 31 - Estella to Los Arcos - 21.4 km

Only one choice today - walk the 21 km, because the only place in between was the beautiful. Village of Villamayor de Monjardin, which had no beds available today. Normally, that distance is not hard, but the first 8 km were pretty well up hill, and the last 13 were barren and hot, with no refuelling stations.  By the time we checked in to the Austrian Albergue at 4:00 we both were tired, especially her.  Thankfully it was a good albergue, with a good choice of eateries nearby.  We ate a pilgrim meal at a restaurant (they're always better at the albergues) and went to evening mass at 7:00.  At the end of the Mass, (Spanish) the priest invited all pilgrims to the front where he gave a short greeting and blessing in several languages - including English. We're glad we went.

Day 9 - Monday, Sept. 1 - Los Arcos to Torres del Rio - 7.5 km

At breakfast we met a lady named Beth, from Maine.  I remembered her from Day 0 in SJPDP, so when I saw her at the table, I asked "how's Maine today?" She immediately broke into sobs, saying that she had a terrible day yesterday, and was thinking of quitting.  (Because of the distances between villages yesterday, and because rooms were fuller than usual, she had been caught out in that scorching heat for 30 km.  She was not prepared for that, and hadn't eaten nor hydrated well, and it was taking its toll on her today). 

We talked at some length, and encouraged her to take her time in making decisions, and then we separated for the day.  

Another hot day of walking, BUT we came to the little town of Torres del Rio.  We had intended to walk right through, but a private hotel with a swimming pool seemed to have our names written all over it.  It's a good thing because the afternoon got into the high 30's, and Viana was not as close as we wished.  It was on this day that Lorraine's leg really began to bother her - sharp pain in shin when walking, and fairly severe swelling of the ankle.  

We had a great afternoon, a beautiful pilgrim meal in the hotel restaurant, and all in all it was a great day - with the exception of the nagging concern over the foot.  She sent prayer request to our friends, and we went to bed.

In Torre del Rio, we met Beth again.  She had made some good decisions today, including a room in this hotel, had called her husband, and together decided to make significant changes.  Tomorrow she will bus/train ahead to Leon, and from there finish the Camino before flying home on the 25th. 

Day 10 - Torres del Rio to Viana - 11.3 km

Ironically, the day after we (especially Lorraine) had helped Beth make this decision, we felt as if we also may be faced with that kind of choice.  Because Lorraine's foot had seemed much better when we awoke, we decided to move on, instead of staying  put for another day.  We started late, but early on in the walk it was obvious that something had changed.  She could hardly move her foot.  Within a half hour, I had taken her back back and was able to carry it comfortably, but the idea of me carrying her load bothered her, and she burst into tears.  The one thing I have never learned how to hande (help me men if you can) is a crying woman.  I assured her it was OK, and together we found a speed we were both "comfortable" with.  It was only three hours, and by the third her foot had limbered enough she could carry her bag but at that point it was a real concern.

In Viana, we had a great afternoon and evening - Jesus Meditstion with new friends at a place called Pilgrim's Oasis, a pilfgrim meal in a restaurant they recommended, a good enough room overlooking a beautiful green space.

Day 11 - Viana through Logrono to Navarette - 22.2 km

Today was a seven hour walk, and I carried both packs for six of those.  Again, this bothered her more than it did me.  I am able to find a speed that I could carry that weight  all day, but that doesn't mean she likes the idea of me carrying it.  More tears (a little mor silent this time) and the finally the day was completed.  We met a lady who told us about a product called Anika Montana, and we found some in a Farmacia in Logrono.  It seemed to help, and that along with me carrying the bags had her leg feeling much better by check in time that evening.  

During the day we joked that we probably started many family fights. Every time we were passed by a couple, we could imagine the wife looking at the husband and saying "Why aren't you carrying my bags?"  Oops, sorry men! 

Lest we forget the beauty if this day, between Logrono and Navarette, we walked through a national forest, which was a delightful refuge from the scorching afternoon sun.

This was our first "less than satisfactory" experience in an albergue, but that's not a bad problem.  

Day 12 - Navarette to Ventrosa - 6.9 km

Yesterday we made the decision to walk 10 km days and see how Lorriane's feet handled that.  With a combination of me carrying her pack, taking frequent rests, and doing 10 k, we think we can still make this thing happen.  So ... We arrived in Ventrosa (7k) at 10:30 am, put our bags down, struggled against the urge to carry on to Najera (11 more). Glad we fought the urge and won, because we discovered that what everyone says about the albergue at Ventrosa is true.  It is B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L.. The atmosphere, the small but beautiful garden in the backyard, the care extended by the hosts and hostesses all combine to make this place a truly meaningful stop.

Went for the pilgrim meal at one of the two local bars, and were invited to join a group of 5 younger people.  Three turned out to be Canadian, and 2 Spanish.  It was a wonderful evening with Javier and Carmine trying to teach us all Spanish. The only thing they know of English is Daniel Boone,  so suffice to to say that the evening was a blast, and added to the Ventrosa experience.

Day 13 - Ventrosa to Azofra - 16 km

Beautiful morning start - the "chanting" music to waken us at 6:00 am - pack our things and "on the road" by 7:00 a.m.  Cool walking for the first three hours into Najera - mostly by ourselves, but we did meet put with Javier and Csrmen from last night supper at one look out.  They pointed out the next village of interest (from among the many that were in view at that time) as well as make sure we knew that the rubble where we were standing was the remains of an ancient hospital.  

Lorraine's feet did amazingly well through out the morning, and even most of the next 7 km section.  She walks in front, to make sure it is her setting the speed, and we were surprised when the 11 km distance melted away in 2.5 hours.

Unfortunately, the last two km in the afternoon were a little too far, so she has spent the afternoon with her feet in the cold pool (there could be more severe treatments in this climate). We will see what tomorrow brings.  We'd like to go 15 km to  Santo Domingo, but may have to settle for 9 into Ciruena.

As I'm writing this she's having a 6:00 pm snooze, resting for the fiesta that they say stars at 8:00!  We'll let you know how the party turns out.