Figured we had better do a more full day since the last two had been on the lesser side of moderate. The day was broken into three distinct sections:
The morning walk along a plateau to a town built at the bottom of a "bowl". You literally did not see Hontanas until you were less that a half kilometre from it, and then the earth opened up and there was a very pilgrim friendly town. Stopped for snack here and met Allie and Allayna (sp?) from London. Spent longer there than intended as they were in a talkative mood. (Met them again that evening and they were helpful.)
The late-morning walk was interrupted by the "ruins of San Anton". We were walking by, but we have an unspoken rule that if a fellow pilgrim tells us that we should stop and look at something, we do. Helen (Australian girl we met last night) was staying at this hostel - (no electricity, no services except a community evening meal) - and she said we should look around. It was a half hour well spent.
The third section was not long, but it felt it. It was hot again by now, and the long straight walk into town tired us both out. The search for an albergue took longer than expected, and when we got there it wasn't open for another two hours. That was OK, because we were amongst some of the first to arrive at this hostel, so we knew we had a place to spend the night.
Late afternoon and evening - attending to pilgrim duties such as shower, finding food for tomorrow and tonight, walking too far to catch the end of a festival, walking back and falling asleep.
Met Barry from Florida, and Debbie from Washington State, and enjoyed a chat.
Met a Spanish man with a bitter spirit - ANGRY, ANGRY, ANGRY - at the world. Said he was dying from Leukemia, and was walking to Santiago where he supposed he would make his peace with God, but he wasn't sure he wanted to do that - at least he wanted to have a fight first. We listened to him and talked for a while. Later learned he had disrupted most of the albergue with his ranting in the night.
Day 22 - Sunday, Sept. 14 - Castrojeriz to Itero de la Vega - 12 km
A good strong hill first thing in the morning - 1 hour to the top of the 12% grade! about 15 minutes across the plateau, and then a long 18% descent. Halfway up the ascent, we met a man running back toward Castrojeriz, and about halfway down the descent his wife was waiting with their two backpacks. Whatever he was running back after, I hope it was important, because he would be at least three hours before he was back to where she was.
Walked with Barry (Florida) for a few minutes, and then he was gone. (Debbie, his walking partner from yesterday had taxied ahead to Fromista)
The "event of note" on this day was our encounter with Helen (Australia). I first met her two nights ago in Hornillos des Camino. When we met she told me I reminded her of a friend, and she had just been thinking of that friend while she walked. She took that as a sign she was "where she was meant to be tonight". Then we met her yesterday (as noted) at San Anton. Somewhere during this time I gained the firm impression that I was to give her a message. I do not know why it was important, but on this day we ran into her again at the ancient hospital of Sant Nicholas. It is now a small hostel, and this is where she was staying tonight. We found her out back, and the simple conversation was simply this:
- "I was asked to give you a message."
- "By whom?"
- Me shrugging, and pointing to the sky, "I don't know, but I have been asked to tell you that you have a beautiful spirit."
That was all, but as the tears welled up in her eyes and I turned to walk away, I know that for some reason that was important. Maybe someday we'll meet again and she'll tell me why.
We stopped early in Itero de la Vega, spent. Good but uneventful afternoon and evening, and got a good night sleep. No snorers in the tiny 12 bed room. I think that is a first
Day 23 - Monday, Sept. 15 - Itero de la Vega to Fromista - 14.5 km
Woke to the sound of pouring rain at 6:00, but by the time we were ready to walk at 7:15 it had stopped, the sun was peaking through and it was a beautiful day. Lorraine even found 10€ on the path way about 2 km from town.
For some reason the pain that was in Lorraine's right foot two weeks ago decided to come back - this time in her left foot. By the time we got to Fromista we had to stop, even though we had not planned that. Sat around waiting for the albergue to open, got checked in and she got rested up. Hopefully it will work like it did the last time, and disappear in one or two days.
At the evening meal we shared with a man named Marlin from Houston. (I had chatted with him briefly yesterday at the restaurant). Had a great conversation with him - sharing Camino and other life experiences. He is an educator, so we share some similar experiences. We are trying to become Facebook friends so we can share each other's stories, but so far the wifi Is not cooperating.
Day 24 - Tuesday, Sept. 16 - Fromista - Carrion de les Condos - 21.5 km
A good day walking and a great evening at the Albergue.
First the walking:
After the rough finish to the day yesterday with Lorraine's left foot, we were somewhat afraid of what this day might bring. Looking at the location and mileage of the the next few albergues, we knew that we wanted to get to Carrion, in order to make tomorrow palatable (meaning not too short for me and not too long for Lorraine's foot.)
Suffice it to say that it was comfortable walking weather, her leg was more than cooperative, there were villages for rest stops at convenient locations, so all in all it was a good day and we finished our 20 km and were checked in at 1:00 pm.
Along the way we met three fellow Maritimers (Bathurst, NB and PEI) as well as several others.
The Albergue:
Sorry, Ciraqui, but as nice as you were you have now been replaced as our number one evening. We checked in at the Santa Maria Albergue, attached to the Santa Maria Church. Even before we had decided to stay there, the young volunteer had brought us a cup of ice tea, and a fresh fruit to eat. The price was €5, and the rest of the evening was what you might idealize as the "perfect Pilgrim Experience". Voluntary Vespers at 5:30 at the church, voluntary shared musical led by four young nuns back at the Albergue at 6:00, Mass followed by Pilgrim blessing at 8:00, and a shared meal at 9:00.
We were not part of all of this (we eat long before 9:00, and that meant we missed the Mass) but we were in on the sing-a-long and the pilgrim blessing and I sat outside the door and experienced the vivacity of the shared meal.
It was the spirit of the four nuns and the three male volunteers that made this evening what it was. Their faces absolutely glowed with the joy of The Lord, their greatest delight was to see the pilgrims smile, (and they did much to make that happen). Thank you to those who serve humbly and faithfully at Santa Maria for making this evening the highlight of our pilgrimage so far.
We ate supper with Marlin (Houston) and Wanda (from Calgary) and I talked at length with Marlin about this evening. We are in agreement that this was a special Camino moment, and one that we hope will be recreated several times over in the coming weeks.
Day 25 - Wednesday, Sept. 17 - Carrion to Calzdilla de la Cueza - 17 km
This day was as difficult as yesterday was easy.
Lorraine's leg cooperated, but just barely. I carried her bag for 3/4 of an hour to get her loosened up, and then she was able to do it the rest of the way, but basically only by putting her mind in auto-pilot and slogging on. When she gets going, she doesn't want to stop, because the ankle freezes each time. The other day, I said she was solar-powered, and today she was wind-powered. I can hardly keep up with her when she gets going, which is good news because one of her great fears is that she is slowing me down.
The road today was barren - 17 km of straight road - no hills, no corners, no villages to bring a moments respite. It was windy, threatening rain (we actually had our rain gear on for a good part of the day, because the rain was close, but only got hit for about five minutes.). We finally saw our village at 11:20, but even at 5 km per hour that we were doing, it was shortly after 12:00 before we arrived.
Note of explanation - none of this is complaining. The Camino is what the Camino is. (Just like life is what life is). Yesterday the Camino was the idealized experience. Today the Camino was a long straight road.
At the Albergue this afternoon, we chatted at length with 19 year old twin sisters from Holland. Very interesting and engaging. As I write this we are waiting to go to the one restaurant/bar in town for the evening meal. Maybe we'll be blessed to share the meal with them.
SCORE ONE FOR THE OLD PEOPLE - we invited the twins to join us at our table, and they did! (Admittedly, I told them I'd pay for their meal, but how can you put a price on good conversation with delightful young people)
Day 26 - Thursday, Sept. 18 - Calzdilla de la Cueza to San Nicolas de la Real Camino - 15.5 km
I don't know if I mentioned this before, but sometime in the last week or week and a half the weather has changed. Whether that has to do with altitude (we're at 800 m above sea level lately, as compared to 400 earlier) or just the time of year, I do not know. Two weeks ago it was hot every day, and comfortable in the early morning and evening. Now it is on the lower side of comfortable during the day, and cool in the early mornings and evenings. The last two days we have worn long sleeves and fleece for good part of the day.
Not a bad walk today - we have found "our pace". Our pace is about 15 km per day with the occasional 20 thrown in when Lorraine is not checking too closely. In fact, in the 15 days since we thought we'd be doing good to average 10, we have completed very close to 250 km, or an average of over 16.
Tonight we're at a nice albergue in this tiny town. Can't even go shopping for tomorrow's fruit, because there's no where to shop. The pilgrim meal will be at the bar downstairs, and we'll meet some more new friends.
(The new friends were actually our roommates as well - Susannah and David, and their German Shepherd/Husky Luna. They are from Logrono, Spain, and will be covering many more kilometers per day than we are, as they have 18 days til they must finish)
Day 27 - Friday, Sept. 19 - San Nicolas to Sahagun - 8 km
This was a "short on purpose" day, in order to give Lorraine's leg a rest. But there is one note of significance: we walked through the geographical center of the Camino.
We were in Sahagun by 10:15, waiting for the albergue to open at 11:00. Did walk about 3 km for a stroll this afternoon in order to pick up the Certificate celebrating the geographic Center of the Camino.
While waiting for the albergue to open, we had a coffee with a Bill and Gina. Gina was struggling with many of the same issues as Lorraine, but they were taking a different route. They had caught a bus at Castrojeriz, and were taking the train to Leon - missing 140 km of "fun".
This is a spacious albergue, (in every area except showers and facilities) but not hard at all to spend the day here. We toyed with the idea of a hotel since we were checking in early, but wanted to leave that option for Leon, which looks like is only 2 to 3 days away.
Happy 30th birthday to our youngest daughter, Jaymie.
Thanks for your prayers. Thanks for your notes on FB and on this blog. Every note is read and is an encouragement.
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